How I replaced the spongy floor in my RV for under $500
How I replaced the spongy floor in my RV for under $500


We’re going to be replacing the floor in this Trail life camper I’ve already removed the Top of the bed that was easy that just came right up you probably won’t have any trouble doing that Here’s my bed frame Pretty easy taking this up. I’ve already done it once and replaced it, but it’s all new so this is all brand new I’ve already rebuilt my bed frame But as you can see pretty straightforward Not much to it What I’m going to be doing first is I’m going to be taking the bed back out The next thing I’m going to do is the dinette I’ve replaced this side over here already This is all brand new wood on this side of the dinette I’m getting ready to take out the water tank and the plumbing That’s pretty simple pretty straightforward Anybody can do that Then I’m going to take out this side piece here that the heating duct goes through This side over here is a storage, and we’ll take this side of the dinette out It’s pretty pretty simple just unscrews from the floor Pretty straightforward, and I’m going to take a little bit linoleum up And I’m going to replace the underneath flooring From this part right here where the stove begins? Just this side of my fan on the other side of the dinette bench there you can see the You can see the tile Right there That’s as far back as I’m going to go with the floor because the bet rest of the floor in the back is is good But I’m going to replace all of the vinyl on the floor. I’m going to put a new stick on tile I Don’t need to take out the the wardrobes They’re fine for underneath them as good the storage bin up front from the Outside side doors. I don’t need to replace the floor in it it’s good So I’m replacing the floor Right up to this point right here, you can see where the floor is damaged And you can see on this side Where the storage space is from the side doors? It’s all in good shape So I’m just going to be replacing the floor from that part forward Okay, I’ve been in it about an hour and a half as you can see I Got my dining room benches out that was pretty simple just screwing everything unscrewing everything and This is what I’m faced with I’ve got half the linoleum up And it’s bad That white you see right there, that’s the rubber membrane The wood is rotting all the way through this right right here is insulation This great thing you see is probably a plastic PVC Channel for wiring The thing next to it the white thing next to it seems like maybe that’s a tad aluminum crossmember So far I don’t see any other support, so I’m going to have to do a whole support system new supports And that’s all I’m gonna do today I Got to be careful where I step now because I’ll go through the floor. I don’t want to puncture the membrane on the bottom of the camper There it is folks I’ve got a mess ahead of me Anybody interested in coming and doing this for me. Well. I’m not looking forward to this. It’s August Probably a hundred degrees in here, and it’s about 12:30. I’m headed to the house. I’m done for the day And here’s what I’ve discovered which is gonna make The floor pretty sturdy right here I Have a solid beam that runs the length of the trailer On the Other side exactly the same place right here. I have another one runs the length of the trailer The trailer is a little bit less Than 8 feet long you are wide so what I’m going to do is I’m going to mill down some two by fours the exact Thickness from this beam To the bottom of my plywood for which I believe is 3/8. I’ll verify that and let you know later So this 2×4 will lay on this beam All the way and butt up against this plastic PVC Whatever it is channel that the electric runs through When you’re cutting this floor out be careful. Don’t cut through this into your electrical cable So I’m going to lay a 2×4 one end, but here all the way across this beam across that metal beam Buttoned up against that metal beam over there. There’s another metal beam over there So across the floor to that beam then I’m going to lay another one so there’ll be three two by fours in a 4-foot wide section and Before I put my two by fours down well do is do a Tongue and groove type joint So that I can bring a 2×4 butt it up against this plastic PVC For the water pipe see the water pipe over there it goes in that PVC make sure you don’t cut it so the 2×4 will butt up against this and it’ll come over to this side over here where the other 2×4 goes long, and it’ll interlock in that with a joint There’ll be a two before down the middle It’ll also be key jointed So I’ll do three two by fours across this way Three up and down this way, and that’ll give me a grid of two by fours to lay my floor on Inside the tuba I’ll cut foam The exact size of the grid put it in the grid as my insulation So that’s the plan now this morning I Used my Dremel you can see it right there Absolutely positively in my opinion required for this job. Here’s the reason Pretty high speed I Don’t know if you can see that bit That bit right there is a carbide bit, it’s about an inch long That’s pretty important because you don’t want to go all the way through your plywood floor Through your foam and you don’t want to cut your membrane You want to keep that membrane in? Intact as much as you can be a pain and probably expensive to replace it So I’ve got lots of these carbide bits got my dremel, and it does a real nice job It helps it the plywood is pretty much shot But I just cut right down a section you can see on the wall over there I’ve cut I was able to cut right up against the wall flush with the wall and flush with that aluminum Crossmember over there did a nice job Same thing over here underneath my little pony wall. I cut right along the edge and see it here, too I’m gonna leave that foam in there a couple things to remember Don’t cut into your plastic channel one’s got water hose in it this one over here. Has Electric in it so be careful around that Also what I’m gonna have to do here is in this section right here I’m gonna have to use Some some probably four by sitting or two by sixes because my step Is bolted to that so I’ll have to have a real stability You know a nice solid platform right here so that my step Underneath can bolt into it you can see the hole right there There’s a bolt that comes up through there Hold to the step, you don’t have to be some nice wood here to hold that same on the other side That’s what holds the step up so you got to make arrangements for that So what am I going to do the rest of today? I’m going to take the rest of this floor out and What I’m going to do my plan is I’m gonna do this center section first I’m gonna build my 2×4 frame, and then I’m going to lay my treated plywood on That after I put my foam in and I’m going to get this whole section right here in the middle done completely that way I’ll have a platform right from the door to work, then I can do this side over here and Then when that’s done I can come over here, and do the side where the bed is and that’s the plan So so far it seems pretty pretty straightforward there’s a way to build a good solid platform without adding a whole lot of weight as I see it the only thing is it’s just gonna be hot sweaty. Grunt work and You know what are you going to do? It is what it is I kind of wanted to give you an overview and a look at how this dremel works When you’re cutting this line it’s kind of good to lay your Dremel down at about a 45 degree You Notice on the initial two cuts I’ve got the tool laid over at an angle And you don’t want to try to cut all the way through at one time you sneak up on it is easier You You You This part of the floor is not damaged so it’s kind of being difficult Anyway You can get the gist of what I’m doing I used my Dremel to cut along the edges take out one section at a time manageable This is the underlayment This is the old felt paper Which is what I duplicate then What’s the luan? It’s you can obviously see this has been this is damp. So it’s gotten wet somehow Don’t have to take all this out of here, but You don’t need to see all this it’s all just grunt cut grunt cut grunt dirty nasty dusty work You get the gist Okay here is a During construction almost finished my floor sandwich That I’m putting in as you can see I’ve made a grid of two by fours and I had to mill the 2×4 I Had the mill these two by fours right here in this grid down to an inch and a quarter thick and the reason is This foam insulation You can see this piece is 3/4 and The one underneath it is half, so that’s an inch and a quarter The reason that I came upon that size is because that’s the size my old floor was I Want the same thickness as my old for These are lap joints right here All these are lap joints I’ve constructed the frame the bottom of it Is luan You can see right there Pretty thin, I think it’s about 3/16 The top piece is going to go on the top my floor sheeting is going to be 3/8 This is number 15 felt tar paper right here. You see in my hand I Put that on the bottom after I put my luan stapled and glued with liquid nails construction cement This Louanne right here bottom lemon is Stapled and glued the staples I used our Porter Cable Number 18 1 inch Brad’s So the foot the underlayment is stapled and glued to my 2 by 4 frames Then I cut out my panels my insulation panels I cut them out C To match and they go inside there Then when this is all done. I’m fixing to do this right here to lay these in Once I get that done. I’ll cover another layer of felt roof paper, and I’ll put it in the camper Getting this in the door This cutout here you see it’s for the pony wall where the curtain is and this cutout over here You see It’s this corner of the sink. I had to cut those out, and I had to match them up To get them So what I’m gonna. Do this is my hardest piece Everything else after this is just going to be Two foot wide Panels, so it’d be two foot with that and I can just pick them up take them in there and lay them across the beams be much easier This one here was the tough one because I had to engineer it as I went it’s been a bear But I’ve about got it, and I’m going to install it this afternoon Then I’m going to use sheet metal screws, and I’m going to screw these beams right here these cross beams you see right here There’s three there three there, they’ll be screwed to the metal Frame of the camper so this that’s how this floor will be attached to the camper the only place There’s any support on my floor is right in this area right here There’s a metal beam that runs the length of the camper and Then down here about right here There’s a metal beam that runs the of a can camper this whole section in here is free-floating. I’m hoping that with this construction of the lap joints the underlayment the tight-fitting foam The felt paper and then the deck I’m hoping that will give me a good solid floor here in the middle without any sag We’ll see Okay this Is the section that that’s gonna go in You can see my membrane right here, you can see right here is the metal frame? You can see how far it is from the door jamb On the other side. It’s the same distance. There’s a metal and it runs the full length of the camper This is to slide the panel in And see this is the sink right here. That’s that one cut out it’s got a little lid in there and To get it in I had to cut it out to get past the slide down past this pony walls while I call it Once I get this pimped this piece inserted and finished. It’ll get screwed to this metal beam on here and here Then I’ll put another coat of felt paper on it then I’ll put on the plywood deck Hopefully that’ll be nice and sturdy and from the center here I’ll be able to work Either way into this floor section and then into this floor section over here This job is not for the faint of heart. I’ll tell you it has been a bear oh Well it is what it is Had to be done. I couldn’t afford to get a $2,000 to get a floor put in so here. We are Okay see that. I’ve got this section of the floor removed It took me about two hours Because the floor was not rotten. It’s still good and dry for the most part So it took longer to cut it out But I got it out You can see the white foam insulation, it’s part of the floor sandwich from the trailer company I’ve got a nice straight line cut over there this is up to my Cabinets That right. There is my electrical panel that black thing in the upper right hand corner of course these are the cupboard doors for my sink And this This metal frame right here Runs all the way across It’s part of the aluminum construction for the suspension and The wheel wells which are right here. These are the wheel wells There’s one on this side And see there And there’s one under the sink over here So this is where the rubber meets the road Does I have a slight? Engineering problem, and I’m not an engineer This right here Is the metal steel trailer frame It runs the full length remember we talked about this in the earlier video There’s also one on the other side which is up about right here Runs this way the full length so you can see the problem to get To that metal beam I’d have to tear out the sink And I don’t want to do that that’s a that’s a real job, so I Have this aluminum beam right here that can support This edge of the floor you Can see that this over here is Nice hard solid wood. This is a solid and This floor is good and sturdy, and I have my beam of course back here so if I build my floor Sandwich frame using my same construction methods put a 2×4 this here and a 2×4 here in the middle and Then one over here on this edge With the floor Supported on this beam here like this part of it is then my floor is supported on this end really well here, and it’s supported along here and There’s some fairly good support available Over here if I can figure out how to do it, but I’ve got nothing No support here if I put my two before and just Lay it here. It’s not it’s gonna lay on nothing that that rubber membrane won’t hold it and it’ll punch hole in it and When soon as you step on it that whole section will go right through the? Membrane you’re down on the road what supports this end of the floor So that’s what I got to figure out Okay Okay, here’s the big reveal what I did Was I came in here and I cut out just enough for my two before to lay in there fortunately? It was this side of my plumbing right here is my beam I still beam So I’ve got that cut now I’ll – before I lay between beams over Here I’m in the process of cutting this one and so that’ll get cut out and Then we’ll be in Fat City Okay this has been a real pain I’ve been at this now for about 14 days. I’ve got my floor down Got it screwed to my floor panel that I made You can see I got it screwed down And what I’ve done is I put it over the screw heads and all of the low spots, and then I sanded it I Didn’t want any of those screw heads or any of those spots to telegraphing through my tiles So I’ve sanded all that down so each one of those watches you see a screws Got it all the way Got the floor down and you can see I’m starting to put my tiles down This is the section up here, I didn’t have to replace it’s all it’s all good So here in another day or so I’ll have all the tiles done Once I got this floor sanded and Smooth the way I wanted it. I used Henry’s 336 bond enhancer I Rolled that over the whole floor. Let that dry for about 90 minutes, and I’m ready to put on tile So that’s what I’m doing now is I’m putting stick on tiles It seems to be going pretty good If you watched my video and found it interesting please subscribe to my channel. It’s FREE. Well here we are on October the 8th and My camper floor is finally complete Now I started it the last day in August so You figure out the number of days now. I didn’t work every day I Probably took 4 or 5 days off during that time, but I usually worked about 5 or 6 hours a day on this floor and It was a nightmare It was the most frustrating job, I’ve ever undertaken It seemed like the camper was fighting me tooth and nail every step of the way If something could go wrong it did go wrong But I persevered I took some break for sanity sake and I ended up with a really really great floor in my camper. It is nice and steady and strong There’s no more spongy spots in it. I know that there’s no rotten wood in it. It’s got a nice solid floor so I’m happy now that it’s done a Couple things that I didn’t mention during my videos when I was making it doing the camper One of them was When you have the floor off and your membrane is membrane your rubber membrane is exposed make sure That you use heavy-duty gorilla, duct tape To tape any holes or cracks or anything in your membrane top and bottom If I found a hole in it I taped it on the top of it Inside the camper and I taped it on the bottom outside the camera So I’m very confident that the rubber membrane On the bottom of my camper is intact and will not leak also because I use 15 Felt paper I have a double barrier against water. I’ve got the rubber membrane and then I have the felt paper So I’m real confident. I have a great floor Just remember if you undertake this You better know what you’re doing Also you might want to make sure you have the tools you need The tools that I used other than the basic hand tools that you would think you would need are I use my jointer I use my thickness planer I Used my table saw I used my bandsaw I Used a hand circular saw Hand saws hammers screwdrivers. I use electric drills Electric screwdrivers and course my dremel I used a hairdryer Various rulers carpenters square These are the normal tools that you would use you know woodworking So if you’re gonna undertake this project make sure you have the tools, and you know how to use them Now that the project is complete, I’m happy that I got a good floor in my camper oh It was it a job Probably if I’d have known what it was going to take when I started I Might not have done it. I mean just said the heck with it and sold it as is but It’s done. I’m happy and Let me show you the floor Okay, here’s the floor There’s my back bunk I Rebuilt that whole bottom bunk back there The top bunk is okay at the bottom that you see there the clapboard I rebuild all that Put all new trim down That’s under my dinette Of course everything under the dinette, it’s all new You sawed-off is all ripped out the bed the bed is new of course now the floor is new Everything is nice and new Oh There it is Completed floor Ready to go camping Thanks for watching You

94 thoughts on “How I replaced the spongy floor in my RV for under $500”

  1. ernest shawver says:

    good job thanks for shareing

  2. bentstraight says:

    Thanks for posting getting ready to start the same thing with ours

  3. Derek Makela says:

    I really enjoyed your video, I have 07, Layton Skyliner 25ft I need to change a patch by the door, thought it would be easy, wasn't aware of the pvc electrical. I learned a lot your frame work is awesome,.

  4. Jeff White says:

    "This job is not for the faint of heart"

    LOL. That's an understatement. I did a floor repair on mine last year and need to a different section this year.

    It was interesting to find out when doing mine that trailers are built from the inside out…..makes getting to certain fasteners lots of fun and reattaching interior pieces even more fun!

  5. csmpaul says:

    What had happened to your floor is called de-lamination it's where the polystyrene between the two sheets of ply has become crushed over time in the places where there is heavy foot traffic,
    The idea of a laminated floor is to give maximum strength to the chassis without being too heavy, if you look underneath your caravan you will see a light weight galvanised chassis with the floor directly on top, unlike older types where the chassis was made of heavy steel with wooden joists laid along the top with a thick plywood floor attached to them, in which case what you've done here would have been a fantastic repair, however, what you should do when your floors de-laminate is inject a resin into the floor to fill the void left by the crushed polystyrene, look up caravan floor delamination here on youtube to see how it's done, it's a lot quicker, easier, makes the floor stronger than when it was new and most importantly it doesn't weaken the chassis so is much safer too.
    Please be aware of this and think about strengthening the chassis where you've replaced the floor.
    All the best, Paul…

  6. Lakario Davis says:

    i have the same frame. how is your floor holding up?

  7. Danny Mccarley says:

    How much would you charge to do another?

  8. Jim Hearl says:

    I have the exact same problem and same trailer. Do you know were the water was coming from to make the floor rot ???

  9. deadmanprodinc says:

    On your comment, had I known how much work this was you may have sold it with the faulty floor. You didn't and I am sure each time you step into your camper/trailer it is a reminder of the good work, tolerance and dedication you invested in this project. Remembering that with most projects we are not trained to undertake, it usually takes longer than expected and is usually far more complicated, nothing ventured nothing gained. You have a beautiful hand crafted floor and we have a video aid to point us in the right direction now. Good work and thanks!

  10. gdteer50 says:

    thanks for the video roger

  11. Hesynergy says:

    Yeah we're in the same situation. We think, after 10 years since purchase, which was for my son's habitation as he went through high school and frequent visits from college every year, it has served its purpose. It was never moved since its arrival.

    I admire your willingness to jump in to a project that, as you admit, you had no idea would be as complex.

    I had the roof re-sealed, a slide floor rebuilt and then I found out the kitchen in my 1999 Dutchman RK SL 27 foot 5th wheel is getting spongy. There are signs of delamination and mold on several walls. I installed a ventless gas heater, early on, and from what I've read, that emit's a good amount of moisture into the air, a calculation readily available by googling it…perhaps that added to the wall and floor problems.

    Also, the tires show evidence of dry rot, so I am fearful about the liability of moving it…Unless done by Professional.

    I, at 69, am not up to repeating your respected, project….it's just too arduous for me, my pocketbook, and expertise,

    While yours appears to be structurally sound and I really admire your engineering… You could hear the repaired area creaking as you walked it, and that might give a prospective buyer pause.

    I think we'll just call it quits and not sell ours to a prospective camper buyer as-is, because, in our hearts, we wouldn't feel good about that…and it is doubtful an RV dealer would be interested.

    We are contemplating donating it to our local public broadcasting station or possibly church, and taking a write-off on it.

    So, sir, WELL DONE! Yer a better man than I, Charley Brown!

    Respectful regards,
    Chas

  12. John Work says:

    I've been rebuilding rv'z for years No matter what you do it will leak n rot all over again always use pressure treated wood no felt paper because it will hold in the moisture . Always double up everything sister into everything!! Good luck. Let me know if you need some info!!!

  13. John Work says:

    Lawan on bottom foam Lawan on top lame construction from the factory very bad design !! SO SO SORRY 🙁 !!!!!!

  14. John Work says:

    I've done 1000'z of them!!!! Everyone is a nighmere to do. SELL IT NOW!!!!!!

  15. John Work says:

    Hear that squeeking as you walk that's the floor flexing! Good Luck. 100hrs. Of labor……. By myself I have to get them done in 2-3 days!!! Max! 10 hrs. Max!!!!

  16. rejmonwilson says:

    I am doing the samething, only back part of camper was water damage, used marine grade plywood, very pricy.and 1by2 and build support, this gives lots of support, then green foam boards and finished of know doing floating alure floor.it is time consuming and over well ming. Put looking forward to the finish.it is tedious, but worth it.anyone can do this just give yourself time.

  17. F. Bourque says:

    Thanks for sharing your experience.

  18. Brian A says:

    I have a similar model (Trail cruiser)  with a recent floor problem. Due to a Wind Sheer that damaged it last year.. It was literally lifted, and threw up against my garage….. It had some damage fixed by a rv repair shop, but they must have missed something because my floor is now spongy  I Just noticed it. No damage to any walls, or roof. .. Now I am unsure to repair, sell, or complain to my insurance, and hope they cover it…

  19. crispyspa says:

    What about under the walls? The walls are put on after the floor is built. Wouldn't it stand to reason the floor is also rotted underneath the walls? The reason I ask is, I just did a floor repair video and I had to jack up the wall to replace the floor and sill underneath the wall.

  20. 1916holton says:

    remove and seal windows. Water leaks in around the windows and down the wall saturating the floors. Then the water wicks across the floors

  21. Grejam53 says:

    WOW,  thanks so much for uploading your RV repair project. I have a '05 Coachman Capri 27DS that we just discovered a spongy spot inside the door this last weekend. Seems to extend @ 2' square.  I'm all into saving money and I'm pretty good handyman wise but after watching your video, I know I don't want to undertake this job. I don't have the area or the needed tools. So, I'm in the process of getting 3 repair estimates. First one came back already at $1500. and I'm awaiting the other 2. It's amazes me how cheap these companies go with RV flooring. Rather than marine grade plywood they use crappy chipboard. Anyway, beautiful job on your camper  and on the video.

  22. MontiR Aruba says:

    what caused the damaged. How can it be prevented?

  23. _Jaden_Grace _ says:

    Your voice could pass for Rick Ramsey. It's amazing.

  24. Maylee1973 says:

    I'm screwed… The cost of the tools plus material it seems, for me, that 2k for someone else to do it…. Might be a better option…. I hate that realization, but yea…… Ugh….

  25. TheRooibosSuite says:

    Hi Roger
    First of all thanks so much for putting this up. I have some damage in my Toyota Odyssey in the bathroom area. What model Dremel did you use?

  26. The Burton Family says:

    Just an awesome overview and instructional DIY video, all aspects. In addition to being extremely detailed/meticulous, you are very likable. Wish I could meet you.
    Considering purchasing 2009 19' w/soft floors from dining to rear bunks. An absolute requirement to know this information.
    Thank you!! God bless USA!
    Rob, Newfoundland Canada

  27. Bill Montanari says:

    Something caused it to rot, I hope you found and fixed the leak. Also Luan is not made with exterior waterproof/exterior glue. I would have used a different product at least an exterior plywood, maybe marine grade or pressure treated. Rot is like cancer unless you got it all, and that includes that which is under the exterior walls, I hate to tell ya but it'll be back. I wish you the best. You definitely put your time in and your workmanship looks good.

  28. Franklin Quijote says:

    Very handy good job. Have some question I am planning to buy like this camper trail lite 2002 20 feet good price what you say about this brand and model? thanks

  29. Carson Eberts says:

    here is the thing with all these vids the linoleum covers the water damge on my trailer how do i take that linoleum off without wrecking it no one shows that please help

  30. Roger Dale Scott says:

    OK, it's been 1 and a half years since I replaced this floor. The floor is holding up really well. Still nice and solid. However, the stick on Tile has been a failure. For some reason all of the tiles around the walls and in front of the sink will not stick to the plywood flooring. I have tried everything. No luck. I think it is because they are only locked in on three sides by the adjacent tiles. The fourth side is the wall side and there is nothing butted up against that side of the tile so it has a tendency to move toward the wall. I even put new tiles down with extra glue. I am stimeyed.

  31. Michael Rios says:

    Roger,
    Thank you so much for creating this video. I am getting ready to repair my 2004 TC24QBH RV. Go figure I find you have the same make of a trailer. Lucky for me!!! I only have the middle section to tackle. From bathroom door to sliding partition. I will have to remove the sink and dining area. Without this great video of yours, I would have been lost. Thanks to you, it is game on!!!

  32. allanGEE says:

    In the future, don't use duct tape to seal anything. In a few years, it dries out and gets brittle. Best bet is aluminum tape. Next best (slightly cheaper) is the tape they use to seal vapor barrier and house wrap in construction. One brand name is Tuck Tape.

  33. Brandon Near says:

    I own a 2003 Jayco Kiwi 23B and replaced the entire roof last winter; I mean the entire roof. I removed the Awning, all the roof vents, the AC unit, all the trim and rain gutter attachments. I then removed the EPDM roofing material, unscrewed the roof frame from the walls, lifted the entire roof frame off the trailer and dropped to the floor where I then stripped and rebuilt the roof. The roof mirrors the floor in construction (sandwich style construction of ply and foam). I am going to do the floor this winter and because I did the roof, I know how much time, effort and pain this will be….I don't know what I am thinking apart from the fact that though it is a tough venture, anybody can do it if you're willing to be patient, the payoff is in the lessons you learn.

  34. Steven Brogna says:

    I am tackling the same issue on a trail cruiser. Typical 6 sided foam, one leak and totaled. Our floor is rotten in the bathroom directly above the black tank. We have to attack it from the top of the rail, rip out tub, and redo entire rear of camper.

  35. DIY HVAC says:

    Got that problem with the same camper I got very cheap everything is great except floor is bowing in bec they used cheap plywood! Previous owners just laid plywood on top but in still caving in from little support underneath. Going to rebuild her your video should help!

  36. gunlover1955 says:

    I know this is an old post but here goes some boat fiberglass and resian will make the fix a lot stronger maybe next time.

  37. Debbie Schow says:

    Thank you, this was very helpful

  38. Anton Bouchette says:

    When I see all these junk crap RV's, now I know why those gorgeous, meticulously made Airstreams are so expensive. They are like a Rolls Royce compared to a lot of the slapped together shit.

  39. JoeCnNd says:

    No offense but am I the only one that thinks that the floor looks like it has swastikas on it at 32:38? lol

  40. Peg Dimarco says:

    I know that you can get solutions for that on woodprix website. just google 'woodprix' :)))

  41. Michael Futch says:

    i have a 1979 Fleetwood prowler and the previous owner left me with a broken support from frame rotten bottom board and sagging door uneven and fixing now but support is my problem is living in it ideas please

  42. Michael Futch says:

    i have a 1979 Fleetwood prowler and the previous owner left me with a broken support from frame rotten bottom board and sagging door uneven and fixing now but support is my problem is living in it ideas please

  43. Michael Futch says:

    i have a 1979 Fleetwood prowler and the previous owner left me with a broken support from frame rotten bottom board and sagging door uneven and fixing now but support is my problem is living in it ideas please

  44. Keith & Danielle says:

    Thanks for sharing this video. I also have a Trail lite with the luan
    Styrofoam sandwich floor design that needs to be replaced. Is it safe to cut out and remove the
    luan floor or is it a structural component where I would have to support
    the walls while replacing the floor?

  45. Derek Lair says:

    I have the same camper as you and my floor is soft as well. What caused the floor to get soft? Where did the water come in from on yours?

  46. American Rambler says:

    Was looking at a 26 foot 1999 Trail Lite. It has some water damage in it around the front inside from a leaking front window and a bit of a sag in the roof around the front skylight for some reason. Was considering doing the repair myself but after seeing what yours looked and how it was built when you opened it up, this would be a tough repair task for me to do properly. This trailer used lightweight monocoque construction technology and to duplicate that requires some serious attention to detail and technique. As you saw there appeared to be a few issues in the design and structural layout of that area you worked in. It is not tolerant of water intrusion (no way for it to escape) and lacks the extra support needed in the main floor span area. It would not support my plus size carcass mass anyway. I think I will pass on that trailer after seeing what makes up the structure on this trailer. I am not patient enough to do the massive disassembly and devote the time repairing the damage it would require. Thanks for your video.

  47. Linda Johnson says:

    Thank you for this video, I have they same problem with RV and now I know how to do it.

  48. Charles Tucker says:

    I feel your pain. its like having a second home.

  49. GiGi Sunshine says:

    I listened a couple of times, but did not hear WHAT caused the leak. I'm more fearful of that repair than the floor/subfloor.

    Otherwise, GREAT video!

  50. charles howard says:

    Great job you did!

  51. john g says:

    by now you are probably ready for another floor but great job anyway.

  52. davetileguy says:

    I have learned that America's camp trailers are a lie, they're all rotting inside.

  53. DwightMS1 says:

    I was thinking that it might be a good idea when building or repairing a trailer, to finish the wood floor and wall members with something like Thompson's Water Seal, so the wood doesn't rot before you can notice and repair a leak.

  54. rob891 says:

    Well done, that looked like a real tough job. Extra difficult because there are so few support points for the framing. I know what you mean about how hard it is on the knees. I did a floor repair on my camper last fall. The area was small, just 42×18 inches but still a lot of work. And really hard on the knees & lower back.

  55. Harold Priddle says:

    thank you so much for putting on this vedieo,I,m faced with the same problem with your help I  know I can do the job ,Thank-you Harold

  56. Katie Garner says:

    Thank you thank you for posting this!!! It's worth millions! So sorry for all your troubles, but by taking the time to film/explain/demonstrate, you have helped us prepare for what's ahead for sure! Thank you!

  57. Ron Barfield says:

    man you sure went about some of your solutions the hard way, but you got it, good job

  58. immrnoidall says:

    why did it rot in the middle?

  59. thmosley says:

    good work!

  60. rodgerjon says:

    u did a wonderful repair job. if i may give u a tip on ur tiles that move glue dond some wet dry sand paper to the plywood then glue ur tiles to that should solove the problem good luck johnny

  61. fuqoff aye? says:

    Who cares about the membrane ….. That's what held in the water once it got in the trailer. What's stopping you from laying treated plywood across the metal frame work. I ended up welding metal to the frame to support some of my plywood where I didn't want to remove walls and such. I see you like woodworking but seems like unnecessary work could have been done easier.

  62. Steven Pelican says:

    I look for water damaged Trailers and can usually get them cheap once the owners hear repair estimates. It's not expensive materials, but it is always labor intensive. Being retired with enough space and a shop on my own property helps. I have learned a few tricks, like saw-sawlling rear cabinet screws that are installed before the siding goes on, making them impossible to remove. Just go back in with steel L brackets on the inside to hold them up. I don't remove any siding unless in need of repair. Keep in mind that almost all of your leaks start at the roof and work their way to the floor, sometimes around windows and hatch type doors, you must find and fix your leaks or all your work will need to be redone. Often roof joists are wood & and doomed shaped, causing them to be thinner where they rest on a wall sill plate, the worst thing you can do with smaller trailers is get on the roof unnecessarily and break one of the supports, you won't see the damage due to the rubber membrane or alu. skin covering it, but it will sag into a low spot and the leaking will begin. I have fixed many by removing inside ceiling panels, make a 2×4 support the correct height with another cross piece attached and"bottle jack" the roof back up until u can add a spliced in piece of wood, like fixing a bird wing. I only cut out the rot and splice in lots of wood, mostly 1×2's throughout. you do need lots of tools to do these type repairs, always look for leaks before they have soaked out entire walls and floors and get them stopped. The system is all hinged on a good roof that all water runs completely OFF! The little gutters are important. Good Luck if you try it yourself 🙂
    The Pelican, Ut.

  63. Amanda Billings says:

    get a can of Thompson's water seal coat both sides of plywood and edges.

  64. Six Actual says:

    I sure appreciate your video, I bought a project 2005 RV, ZII Keystone,, I have to replace the entire floor of this 22' trailer, including 2 walls and seal the roof. Its only redeeming feature is unbelievably.. all of the appliance work?? Oh well what seemed to be over my head.. I now think my DIY skills can do it!! thanks

  65. Vetal Turlin says:

    This twoodprix handbook if you want to make it cheaper and better.

  66. Mikha El Bey says:

    lol..the camper was fighting back? you did an awesome job. I'm about to venture down that rd also and it's 5 degrees where I am. walls flooring and roof.

  67. matt smith says:

    i bought a 1987 HY-Line 30footer that sat in open air storage for 7yrs after the owner died.  I only paid $500 but every door frame and about a 6 inch section of floor at both doorways needs to be repaired.  I have worked with boats and fiberglass so I am going to give this a shot solo.  Wish me luck.  I appreciate this detailed video.  It gave me the sack to tackle it.

  68. Deana Prcin says:

    I have a trail-lite 2001 travel trail and the floor is week in areas and need advice on how I can fix it,where to start and if I can do it and im a 53 or old woman but don't know where to begin and can it be done without taking it to a repair shop all I can afford supplies but don't even know what kind of supplies to get

  69. Chris Wokes says:

    Great vid and great work.fancy coming to the uk and helping me do my floor in my motorhome😁

  70. Six Actual says:

    Hey Roger, I did it! Successfully replaced almost the entire floor. Thanks to you It was easier than I thought it would be!

  71. Roger Dale Scott says:

    Spent the week in my camper. The floor is still sound. Although a few of the stick on tiles are coming loose. Solid vinyl sheet might have been a better choice.

  72. mr inspector says:

    most rv makers who manufacture "lite" trailers like this use a laminated floor to save weight. It's just thin luan on both sides with styrofoam in the middle like this trailer. It's absolute crap. Any water and it disintegrates

  73. T Bjorn says:

    As my husbands says "It's not if it has water damage it is when it will happen, seems like all campers end up with water damage!"

  74. Mel Rich says:

    Thanks for the video. I have a big job ahead of me I can see.

  75. Mel Rich says:

    Nice job!

  76. Richard Deshaies says:

    Well, its great that you made this video! I am just in the middle of the same mess… Thanks for your video, tips and advice!

  77. Walt and Linda says:

    I have the same problem and am thinking of just adding a 1/8" piece of sheet aluminum. Cut to fit and covering? Any thoughts?

  78. Jacob John says:

    Why so long lolll

  79. Andria Karshner says:

    Thanks for sharing all your repair ideas. We are doing our now. We pulled all kinds of usable info from your experience. The comment on the floor fighting you back the entire way made me laugh…yep that is how we feel too. Hope you gave enjoyed camping since. Wish I could have warned you about peel and stick flooring. Been there done that. We are using good Shaw vinal flooring to replace the mess that was on ours. Thanks again.

  80. aaroniouse says:

    Too bad the floor creaks after all that work… maybe if you'd put the cross-beams vertically…

  81. Andria Karshner says:

    Yeah, I used it in my house in my closets and laundry room. It is fine in the closets but the heat in the laundry room is awful hard on it and has loosened. I bought Shaw vinal planking but have not laid it yet. Since ours is an RV we also used "Killmat" see video #11, under the flooring. It is for heat and sound. Super easy to lay down. Whew, so glad the floor repairs are finally done! My knees are complaining.

  82. fozrunner says:

    Hello Roger. Thanks for the video. I have just pulled out part of my foam sandwich floor, similar to yours. It looks like it's wet all the back to the door (about 8'). As I get to more solid flooring it gets harder to get the material out, but it's still wet underneath. Looks like I will have to get some dremel bits. I'm looking at constructing panels like you did and fitting them in, and screwing them in to the aluminum frame under the walls. What distance apart are your 2×4's? and lap joints. Another repair job showed 2×6's but I think they would be awfully heavy.

  83. Greg Johnson says:

    Looks very good Roger! Now you’ll have some peace of mind.

  84. justin linnane says:

    Hell of a good job!!

  85. That Guy says:

    So what made you want to leave in the splash guard (liner)? Looking to replace the floor in another 10 to 15 years? Are you going to at least put holes in it so the moisture (water) drains out?

  86. Garry. Abram Fisher says:

    You say your not an engineer but by definition of the word you sir are an engineer.
    Congrats on your solution

  87. Steven W says:

    Sir, I believe you did a wonderful job in this undertaking. I am presently looking for a camper for my family and cannot afford a brand new one. So in looking at used ones, I have come across a few that are in need of floor repair. Not as extensive as the one you did, but would assume similar type of repair. I am pretty handy and have most of the tools you used. I watched your video to see if there would be any surprises and gain any tips if I should go this route. Don't cut yourself short. You really did a wonderful job. Thank you for taking the time to video this project.

  88. Deena Jaime says:

    We recently bought a Trail Lite and were just going to give her a "face lift"……until we found  the water damage, mold and rot. This is the clearest video I have found on this subject by far and we now have more hope and confidence in tackling this endeavor on our own rather than paying someone else to do a job that we could do better after watching this video….thank you for sharing!!!

  89. Berry Taft says:

    Thank you, Roger

  90. Andrew Hill says:

    Awsome job and thankyou for the video I'm really sweating balls right now I just bought a 500 1999 Tahoe lite and the floors are just so so so bad but I'm going to weld some more supports I think idk well see lol

  91. DAWNSTAROFDAVID says:

    Thanks and bravo Roger! Your video will help us immensely as we repair the soft spots in our camper floors. Happy camping to you!

  92. James Wilson says:

    Where is it leaking? Better find out

  93. noneya biz says:

    wrapping roofing paper doesn't do anything other than trap moisture into your floor just like darco wrap does. Both are a joke. 99 percent of camper leaks come from roof and walls/windows which then pools down onto the floor and wrapping the bottom side only keeps it there. Best repair for future reference is to use pressure treated plywood with pressure treated support beams that you can "sister joist" into existing framework, or make your own frame if damage is really bad. Don't wrap anything on the floor, instead spray/roll all repair floor plywood pieces with truck Bedliner spray before installing which will protect it forever with no moisture able to get in.

  94. Lisa DeMatto-Wysong says:

    Excellent video, How did you attach the aluminum frame? I am currently in the process of tearing up the floor in my 2004 Trail-Lite. I'm glad I found your video.

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