How I replaced the spongy floor in my RV for under $500
How I replaced the spongy floor in my RV for under $500

94 thoughts on “How I replaced the spongy floor in my RV for under $500”

  1. ernest shawver says:

    good job thanks for shareing

  2. bentstraight says:

    Thanks for posting getting ready to start the same thing with ours

  3. Derek Makela says:

    I really enjoyed your video, I have 07, Layton Skyliner 25ft I need to change a patch by the door, thought it would be easy, wasn't aware of the pvc electrical. I learned a lot your frame work is awesome,.

  4. Jeff White says:

    "This job is not for the faint of heart"

    LOL. That's an understatement. I did a floor repair on mine last year and need to a different section this year.

    It was interesting to find out when doing mine that trailers are built from the inside out…..makes getting to certain fasteners lots of fun and reattaching interior pieces even more fun!

  5. csmpaul says:

    What had happened to your floor is called de-lamination it's where the polystyrene between the two sheets of ply has become crushed over time in the places where there is heavy foot traffic,
    The idea of a laminated floor is to give maximum strength to the chassis without being too heavy, if you look underneath your caravan you will see a light weight galvanised chassis with the floor directly on top, unlike older types where the chassis was made of heavy steel with wooden joists laid along the top with a thick plywood floor attached to them, in which case what you've done here would have been a fantastic repair, however, what you should do when your floors de-laminate is inject a resin into the floor to fill the void left by the crushed polystyrene, look up caravan floor delamination here on youtube to see how it's done, it's a lot quicker, easier, makes the floor stronger than when it was new and most importantly it doesn't weaken the chassis so is much safer too.
    Please be aware of this and think about strengthening the chassis where you've replaced the floor.
    All the best, Paul…

  6. Lakario Davis says:

    i have the same frame. how is your floor holding up?

  7. Danny Mccarley says:

    How much would you charge to do another?

  8. Jim Hearl says:

    I have the exact same problem and same trailer. Do you know were the water was coming from to make the floor rot ???

  9. deadmanprodinc says:

    On your comment, had I known how much work this was you may have sold it with the faulty floor. You didn't and I am sure each time you step into your camper/trailer it is a reminder of the good work, tolerance and dedication you invested in this project. Remembering that with most projects we are not trained to undertake, it usually takes longer than expected and is usually far more complicated, nothing ventured nothing gained. You have a beautiful hand crafted floor and we have a video aid to point us in the right direction now. Good work and thanks!

  10. gdteer50 says:

    thanks for the video roger

  11. Hesynergy says:

    Yeah we're in the same situation. We think, after 10 years since purchase, which was for my son's habitation as he went through high school and frequent visits from college every year, it has served its purpose. It was never moved since its arrival.

    I admire your willingness to jump in to a project that, as you admit, you had no idea would be as complex.

    I had the roof re-sealed, a slide floor rebuilt and then I found out the kitchen in my 1999 Dutchman RK SL 27 foot 5th wheel is getting spongy. There are signs of delamination and mold on several walls. I installed a ventless gas heater, early on, and from what I've read, that emit's a good amount of moisture into the air, a calculation readily available by googling it…perhaps that added to the wall and floor problems.

    Also, the tires show evidence of dry rot, so I am fearful about the liability of moving it…Unless done by Professional.

    I, at 69, am not up to repeating your respected, project….it's just too arduous for me, my pocketbook, and expertise,

    While yours appears to be structurally sound and I really admire your engineering… You could hear the repaired area creaking as you walked it, and that might give a prospective buyer pause.

    I think we'll just call it quits and not sell ours to a prospective camper buyer as-is, because, in our hearts, we wouldn't feel good about that…and it is doubtful an RV dealer would be interested.

    We are contemplating donating it to our local public broadcasting station or possibly church, and taking a write-off on it.

    So, sir, WELL DONE! Yer a better man than I, Charley Brown!

    Respectful regards,

  12. John Work says:

    I've been rebuilding rv'z for years No matter what you do it will leak n rot all over again always use pressure treated wood no felt paper because it will hold in the moisture . Always double up everything sister into everything!! Good luck. Let me know if you need some info!!!

  13. John Work says:

    Lawan on bottom foam Lawan on top lame construction from the factory very bad design !! SO SO SORRY 🙁 !!!!!!

  14. John Work says:

    I've done 1000'z of them!!!! Everyone is a nighmere to do. SELL IT NOW!!!!!!

  15. John Work says:

    Hear that squeeking as you walk that's the floor flexing! Good Luck. 100hrs. Of labor……. By myself I have to get them done in 2-3 days!!! Max! 10 hrs. Max!!!!

  16. rejmonwilson says:

    I am doing the samething, only back part of camper was water damage, used marine grade plywood, very pricy.and 1by2 and build support, this gives lots of support, then green foam boards and finished of know doing floating alure is time consuming and over well ming. Put looking forward to the is tedious, but worth it.anyone can do this just give yourself time.

  17. F. Bourque says:

    Thanks for sharing your experience.

  18. Brian A says:

    I have a similar model (Trail cruiser)  with a recent floor problem. Due to a Wind Sheer that damaged it last year.. It was literally lifted, and threw up against my garage….. It had some damage fixed by a rv repair shop, but they must have missed something because my floor is now spongy  I Just noticed it. No damage to any walls, or roof. .. Now I am unsure to repair, sell, or complain to my insurance, and hope they cover it…

  19. crispyspa says:

    What about under the walls? The walls are put on after the floor is built. Wouldn't it stand to reason the floor is also rotted underneath the walls? The reason I ask is, I just did a floor repair video and I had to jack up the wall to replace the floor and sill underneath the wall.

  20. 1916holton says:

    remove and seal windows. Water leaks in around the windows and down the wall saturating the floors. Then the water wicks across the floors

  21. Grejam53 says:

    WOW,  thanks so much for uploading your RV repair project. I have a '05 Coachman Capri 27DS that we just discovered a spongy spot inside the door this last weekend. Seems to extend @ 2' square.  I'm all into saving money and I'm pretty good handyman wise but after watching your video, I know I don't want to undertake this job. I don't have the area or the needed tools. So, I'm in the process of getting 3 repair estimates. First one came back already at $1500. and I'm awaiting the other 2. It's amazes me how cheap these companies go with RV flooring. Rather than marine grade plywood they use crappy chipboard. Anyway, beautiful job on your camper  and on the video.

  22. MontiR Aruba says:

    what caused the damaged. How can it be prevented?

  23. _Jaden_Grace _ says:

    Your voice could pass for Rick Ramsey. It's amazing.

  24. Maylee1973 says:

    I'm screwed… The cost of the tools plus material it seems, for me, that 2k for someone else to do it…. Might be a better option…. I hate that realization, but yea…… Ugh….

  25. TheRooibosSuite says:

    Hi Roger
    First of all thanks so much for putting this up. I have some damage in my Toyota Odyssey in the bathroom area. What model Dremel did you use?

  26. The Burton Family says:

    Just an awesome overview and instructional DIY video, all aspects. In addition to being extremely detailed/meticulous, you are very likable. Wish I could meet you.
    Considering purchasing 2009 19' w/soft floors from dining to rear bunks. An absolute requirement to know this information.
    Thank you!! God bless USA!
    Rob, Newfoundland Canada

  27. Bill Montanari says:

    Something caused it to rot, I hope you found and fixed the leak. Also Luan is not made with exterior waterproof/exterior glue. I would have used a different product at least an exterior plywood, maybe marine grade or pressure treated. Rot is like cancer unless you got it all, and that includes that which is under the exterior walls, I hate to tell ya but it'll be back. I wish you the best. You definitely put your time in and your workmanship looks good.

  28. Franklin Quijote says:

    Very handy good job. Have some question I am planning to buy like this camper trail lite 2002 20 feet good price what you say about this brand and model? thanks

  29. Carson Eberts says:

    here is the thing with all these vids the linoleum covers the water damge on my trailer how do i take that linoleum off without wrecking it no one shows that please help

  30. Roger Dale Scott says:

    OK, it's been 1 and a half years since I replaced this floor. The floor is holding up really well. Still nice and solid. However, the stick on Tile has been a failure. For some reason all of the tiles around the walls and in front of the sink will not stick to the plywood flooring. I have tried everything. No luck. I think it is because they are only locked in on three sides by the adjacent tiles. The fourth side is the wall side and there is nothing butted up against that side of the tile so it has a tendency to move toward the wall. I even put new tiles down with extra glue. I am stimeyed.

  31. Michael Rios says:

    Thank you so much for creating this video. I am getting ready to repair my 2004 TC24QBH RV. Go figure I find you have the same make of a trailer. Lucky for me!!! I only have the middle section to tackle. From bathroom door to sliding partition. I will have to remove the sink and dining area. Without this great video of yours, I would have been lost. Thanks to you, it is game on!!!

  32. allanGEE says:

    In the future, don't use duct tape to seal anything. In a few years, it dries out and gets brittle. Best bet is aluminum tape. Next best (slightly cheaper) is the tape they use to seal vapor barrier and house wrap in construction. One brand name is Tuck Tape.

  33. Brandon Near says:

    I own a 2003 Jayco Kiwi 23B and replaced the entire roof last winter; I mean the entire roof. I removed the Awning, all the roof vents, the AC unit, all the trim and rain gutter attachments. I then removed the EPDM roofing material, unscrewed the roof frame from the walls, lifted the entire roof frame off the trailer and dropped to the floor where I then stripped and rebuilt the roof. The roof mirrors the floor in construction (sandwich style construction of ply and foam). I am going to do the floor this winter and because I did the roof, I know how much time, effort and pain this will be….I don't know what I am thinking apart from the fact that though it is a tough venture, anybody can do it if you're willing to be patient, the payoff is in the lessons you learn.

  34. Steven Brogna says:

    I am tackling the same issue on a trail cruiser. Typical 6 sided foam, one leak and totaled. Our floor is rotten in the bathroom directly above the black tank. We have to attack it from the top of the rail, rip out tub, and redo entire rear of camper.

  35. DIY HVAC says:

    Got that problem with the same camper I got very cheap everything is great except floor is bowing in bec they used cheap plywood! Previous owners just laid plywood on top but in still caving in from little support underneath. Going to rebuild her your video should help!

  36. gunlover1955 says:

    I know this is an old post but here goes some boat fiberglass and resian will make the fix a lot stronger maybe next time.

  37. Debbie Schow says:

    Thank you, this was very helpful

  38. Anton Bouchette says:

    When I see all these junk crap RV's, now I know why those gorgeous, meticulously made Airstreams are so expensive. They are like a Rolls Royce compared to a lot of the slapped together shit.

  39. JoeCnNd says:

    No offense but am I the only one that thinks that the floor looks like it has swastikas on it at 32:38? lol

  40. Peg Dimarco says:

    I know that you can get solutions for that on woodprix website. just google 'woodprix' :)))

  41. Michael Futch says:

    i have a 1979 Fleetwood prowler and the previous owner left me with a broken support from frame rotten bottom board and sagging door uneven and fixing now but support is my problem is living in it ideas please

  42. Michael Futch says:

    i have a 1979 Fleetwood prowler and the previous owner left me with a broken support from frame rotten bottom board and sagging door uneven and fixing now but support is my problem is living in it ideas please

  43. Michael Futch says:

    i have a 1979 Fleetwood prowler and the previous owner left me with a broken support from frame rotten bottom board and sagging door uneven and fixing now but support is my problem is living in it ideas please

  44. Keith & Danielle says:

    Thanks for sharing this video. I also have a Trail lite with the luan
    Styrofoam sandwich floor design that needs to be replaced. Is it safe to cut out and remove the
    luan floor or is it a structural component where I would have to support
    the walls while replacing the floor?

  45. Derek Lair says:

    I have the same camper as you and my floor is soft as well. What caused the floor to get soft? Where did the water come in from on yours?

  46. American Rambler says:

    Was looking at a 26 foot 1999 Trail Lite. It has some water damage in it around the front inside from a leaking front window and a bit of a sag in the roof around the front skylight for some reason. Was considering doing the repair myself but after seeing what yours looked and how it was built when you opened it up, this would be a tough repair task for me to do properly. This trailer used lightweight monocoque construction technology and to duplicate that requires some serious attention to detail and technique. As you saw there appeared to be a few issues in the design and structural layout of that area you worked in. It is not tolerant of water intrusion (no way for it to escape) and lacks the extra support needed in the main floor span area. It would not support my plus size carcass mass anyway. I think I will pass on that trailer after seeing what makes up the structure on this trailer. I am not patient enough to do the massive disassembly and devote the time repairing the damage it would require. Thanks for your video.

  47. Linda Johnson says:

    Thank you for this video, I have they same problem with RV and now I know how to do it.

  48. Charles Tucker says:

    I feel your pain. its like having a second home.

  49. GiGi Sunshine says:

    I listened a couple of times, but did not hear WHAT caused the leak. I'm more fearful of that repair than the floor/subfloor.

    Otherwise, GREAT video!

  50. charles howard says:

    Great job you did!

  51. john g says:

    by now you are probably ready for another floor but great job anyway.

  52. davetileguy says:

    I have learned that America's camp trailers are a lie, they're all rotting inside.

  53. DwightMS1 says:

    I was thinking that it might be a good idea when building or repairing a trailer, to finish the wood floor and wall members with something like Thompson's Water Seal, so the wood doesn't rot before you can notice and repair a leak.

  54. rob891 says:

    Well done, that looked like a real tough job. Extra difficult because there are so few support points for the framing. I know what you mean about how hard it is on the knees. I did a floor repair on my camper last fall. The area was small, just 42×18 inches but still a lot of work. And really hard on the knees & lower back.

  55. Harold Priddle says:

    thank you so much for putting on this vedieo,I,m faced with the same problem with your help I  know I can do the job ,Thank-you Harold

  56. Katie Garner says:

    Thank you thank you for posting this!!! It's worth millions! So sorry for all your troubles, but by taking the time to film/explain/demonstrate, you have helped us prepare for what's ahead for sure! Thank you!

  57. Ron Barfield says:

    man you sure went about some of your solutions the hard way, but you got it, good job

  58. immrnoidall says:

    why did it rot in the middle?

  59. thmosley says:

    good work!

  60. rodgerjon says:

    u did a wonderful repair job. if i may give u a tip on ur tiles that move glue dond some wet dry sand paper to the plywood then glue ur tiles to that should solove the problem good luck johnny

  61. fuqoff aye? says:

    Who cares about the membrane ….. That's what held in the water once it got in the trailer. What's stopping you from laying treated plywood across the metal frame work. I ended up welding metal to the frame to support some of my plywood where I didn't want to remove walls and such. I see you like woodworking but seems like unnecessary work could have been done easier.

  62. Steven Pelican says:

    I look for water damaged Trailers and can usually get them cheap once the owners hear repair estimates. It's not expensive materials, but it is always labor intensive. Being retired with enough space and a shop on my own property helps. I have learned a few tricks, like saw-sawlling rear cabinet screws that are installed before the siding goes on, making them impossible to remove. Just go back in with steel L brackets on the inside to hold them up. I don't remove any siding unless in need of repair. Keep in mind that almost all of your leaks start at the roof and work their way to the floor, sometimes around windows and hatch type doors, you must find and fix your leaks or all your work will need to be redone. Often roof joists are wood & and doomed shaped, causing them to be thinner where they rest on a wall sill plate, the worst thing you can do with smaller trailers is get on the roof unnecessarily and break one of the supports, you won't see the damage due to the rubber membrane or alu. skin covering it, but it will sag into a low spot and the leaking will begin. I have fixed many by removing inside ceiling panels, make a 2×4 support the correct height with another cross piece attached and"bottle jack" the roof back up until u can add a spliced in piece of wood, like fixing a bird wing. I only cut out the rot and splice in lots of wood, mostly 1×2's throughout. you do need lots of tools to do these type repairs, always look for leaks before they have soaked out entire walls and floors and get them stopped. The system is all hinged on a good roof that all water runs completely OFF! The little gutters are important. Good Luck if you try it yourself 🙂
    The Pelican, Ut.

  63. Amanda Billings says:

    get a can of Thompson's water seal coat both sides of plywood and edges.

  64. Six Actual says:

    I sure appreciate your video, I bought a project 2005 RV, ZII Keystone,, I have to replace the entire floor of this 22' trailer, including 2 walls and seal the roof. Its only redeeming feature is unbelievably.. all of the appliance work?? Oh well what seemed to be over my head.. I now think my DIY skills can do it!! thanks

  65. Vetal Turlin says:

    This twoodprix handbook if you want to make it cheaper and better.

  66. Mikha El Bey says:

    lol..the camper was fighting back? you did an awesome job. I'm about to venture down that rd also and it's 5 degrees where I am. walls flooring and roof.

  67. matt smith says:

    i bought a 1987 HY-Line 30footer that sat in open air storage for 7yrs after the owner died.  I only paid $500 but every door frame and about a 6 inch section of floor at both doorways needs to be repaired.  I have worked with boats and fiberglass so I am going to give this a shot solo.  Wish me luck.  I appreciate this detailed video.  It gave me the sack to tackle it.

  68. Deana Prcin says:

    I have a trail-lite 2001 travel trail and the floor is week in areas and need advice on how I can fix it,where to start and if I can do it and im a 53 or old woman but don't know where to begin and can it be done without taking it to a repair shop all I can afford supplies but don't even know what kind of supplies to get

  69. Chris Wokes says:

    Great vid and great work.fancy coming to the uk and helping me do my floor in my motorhome😁

  70. Six Actual says:

    Hey Roger, I did it! Successfully replaced almost the entire floor. Thanks to you It was easier than I thought it would be!

  71. Roger Dale Scott says:

    Spent the week in my camper. The floor is still sound. Although a few of the stick on tiles are coming loose. Solid vinyl sheet might have been a better choice.

  72. mr inspector says:

    most rv makers who manufacture "lite" trailers like this use a laminated floor to save weight. It's just thin luan on both sides with styrofoam in the middle like this trailer. It's absolute crap. Any water and it disintegrates

  73. T Bjorn says:

    As my husbands says "It's not if it has water damage it is when it will happen, seems like all campers end up with water damage!"

  74. Mel Rich says:

    Thanks for the video. I have a big job ahead of me I can see.

  75. Mel Rich says:

    Nice job!

  76. Richard Deshaies says:

    Well, its great that you made this video! I am just in the middle of the same mess… Thanks for your video, tips and advice!

  77. Walt and Linda says:

    I have the same problem and am thinking of just adding a 1/8" piece of sheet aluminum. Cut to fit and covering? Any thoughts?

  78. Jacob John says:

    Why so long lolll

  79. Andria Karshner says:

    Thanks for sharing all your repair ideas. We are doing our now. We pulled all kinds of usable info from your experience. The comment on the floor fighting you back the entire way made me laugh…yep that is how we feel too. Hope you gave enjoyed camping since. Wish I could have warned you about peel and stick flooring. Been there done that. We are using good Shaw vinal flooring to replace the mess that was on ours. Thanks again.

  80. aaroniouse says:

    Too bad the floor creaks after all that work… maybe if you'd put the cross-beams vertically…

  81. Andria Karshner says:

    Yeah, I used it in my house in my closets and laundry room. It is fine in the closets but the heat in the laundry room is awful hard on it and has loosened. I bought Shaw vinal planking but have not laid it yet. Since ours is an RV we also used "Killmat" see video #11, under the flooring. It is for heat and sound. Super easy to lay down. Whew, so glad the floor repairs are finally done! My knees are complaining.

  82. fozrunner says:

    Hello Roger. Thanks for the video. I have just pulled out part of my foam sandwich floor, similar to yours. It looks like it's wet all the back to the door (about 8'). As I get to more solid flooring it gets harder to get the material out, but it's still wet underneath. Looks like I will have to get some dremel bits. I'm looking at constructing panels like you did and fitting them in, and screwing them in to the aluminum frame under the walls. What distance apart are your 2×4's? and lap joints. Another repair job showed 2×6's but I think they would be awfully heavy.

  83. Greg Johnson says:

    Looks very good Roger! Now you’ll have some peace of mind.

  84. justin linnane says:

    Hell of a good job!!

  85. That Guy says:

    So what made you want to leave in the splash guard (liner)? Looking to replace the floor in another 10 to 15 years? Are you going to at least put holes in it so the moisture (water) drains out?

  86. Garry. Abram Fisher says:

    You say your not an engineer but by definition of the word you sir are an engineer.
    Congrats on your solution

  87. Steven W says:

    Sir, I believe you did a wonderful job in this undertaking. I am presently looking for a camper for my family and cannot afford a brand new one. So in looking at used ones, I have come across a few that are in need of floor repair. Not as extensive as the one you did, but would assume similar type of repair. I am pretty handy and have most of the tools you used. I watched your video to see if there would be any surprises and gain any tips if I should go this route. Don't cut yourself short. You really did a wonderful job. Thank you for taking the time to video this project.

  88. Deena Jaime says:

    We recently bought a Trail Lite and were just going to give her a "face lift"……until we found  the water damage, mold and rot. This is the clearest video I have found on this subject by far and we now have more hope and confidence in tackling this endeavor on our own rather than paying someone else to do a job that we could do better after watching this video….thank you for sharing!!!

  89. Berry Taft says:

    Thank you, Roger

  90. Andrew Hill says:

    Awsome job and thankyou for the video I'm really sweating balls right now I just bought a 500 1999 Tahoe lite and the floors are just so so so bad but I'm going to weld some more supports I think idk well see lol


    Thanks and bravo Roger! Your video will help us immensely as we repair the soft spots in our camper floors. Happy camping to you!

  92. James Wilson says:

    Where is it leaking? Better find out

  93. noneya biz says:

    wrapping roofing paper doesn't do anything other than trap moisture into your floor just like darco wrap does. Both are a joke. 99 percent of camper leaks come from roof and walls/windows which then pools down onto the floor and wrapping the bottom side only keeps it there. Best repair for future reference is to use pressure treated plywood with pressure treated support beams that you can "sister joist" into existing framework, or make your own frame if damage is really bad. Don't wrap anything on the floor, instead spray/roll all repair floor plywood pieces with truck Bedliner spray before installing which will protect it forever with no moisture able to get in.

  94. Lisa DeMatto-Wysong says:

    Excellent video, How did you attach the aluminum frame? I am currently in the process of tearing up the floor in my 2004 Trail-Lite. I'm glad I found your video.

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