How To Paint An Exterior Wall – DIY At Bunnings

In this video I’m going to show you how to
prepare and paint an exterior timber weatherboard wall. A splash of paint will make any surface
look absolutely fantastic and it doesn’t take very much to do it. There’s three simple steps.
The first is the preparation. The second is undercoat, if required. And the third is the
top coat. Depending on the condition of your walls and whether you’re going to totally
change the colour from light to dark, you may get away with the two top coats. If it’s
in poor condition, you’ll definitely need a primer. The tools and materials we’ll need
for painting the wall: For preparation we need the wire brush, scourers, sand paper,
a soft brush and pan is always handy, masking tape for taping around windows, the putty
and the putty knife, the filler. If your timber is bad it needs to be scrubbed out with a
wire brush and then filled. You need a scraper. I’ll explain what the newspaper’s for later.
We’ve got a roller and an extension for the roller. We won’t be using that today but in
the case of you doing your eaves you would need the roller. Good quality paint brushes,
good quality paint, a paint pot to put the paint in. And to avoid those splatters on
the plants or on concrete, you’ll definitely need a drop sheet. And most importantly, while
you’re sanding you need a mask, gloves, and you definitely need goggles. The first step
is to have a good look at the wall. I’ve noticed there’s a bit of a gap between these two boards
underneath here so we’ll use the old caulking gun to fill it up, make it a weatherproof
seal. Make sure you put on your rubber gloves. You don’t want to get it all over your hands.
A bit of a squeeze, pushing it away from your body. With a finger, push it up and then wipe
it off and no weather’s going to get under there. Right. With the small hole that we
found here just get yourself a bit of wood filler. Into the hole, scrape it down. Scrape
it nice and flat with a spatula and leave it a little bit on the (?) side so as when
you actually sand it down you’re going to get it level with the board. Don’t forget
to put the mask on and the goggles down before you do your sanding because you don’t want
to be breathing any of the dust. Give everything a light sand. It gets all the rough bits,
the imperfections off. Any little spots where there’s a bit of a drip from a previous painting.
If you’ve got any paint that’s peeling off, you might use a metal brush. With the down
part, you need a bit of a scourer. The next and the last thing with the old brush, you
give everything a good brush down to get all the dust off. And once that’s complete, we’re
ready for painting. As there’s many different types of exterior paints, pop on down to your
local Bunnings Warehouse. Have a word with a team member down there and they’ll give
you all the advice on which particular type of paint to use in your circumstances. In
our case we’re going to use an acrylic pain. Now paints come in cans – 10 litres, 15 litres
– whether it’s acrylic or enamel, it doesn’t matter. Make sure when you get home before
you use it you stir it in the actual can first. Then tip it out into a pail, a smaller pail,
and give it another bit of a stir. The reason you’re going to do that – you don’t want to
be carrying 10/15 litres around the backyard with you or around the front. Now being acrylic
paint, it’s a water-based, so what you can do is get your brush in a bit of water first.
Get rid of the water. And the paint won’t stick to the top of the brush. The other tip:
if it’s below 10 degrees or above 30 degrees don’t bother even starting because it’s too
hot or too cold for the paint to dry. What I always like to do is start at the top and
either in a corner or in this case behind a down pipe. You start behind a down pipe
or in a corner. It doesn’t make such a distinctive mark because that’s going to dry a little
bit before you possibly get around to the other side. If you started right in the middle
and go across, that bit there is going to dry before you get back to it. So it’s always
best to start underneath the weatherboard first. Nice long strokes and then you come
up the top. Right. When you’re putting paint on the brush, dip it in, give it a bit of
a wiggle. Then just give it a tap on each side. You’ll retain all your paint. If you
wipe it on the edge of the bucket you’ll wipe off 40% of the paint. You’ll also notice that
if you put a fair bit of paint on your brush, brush it into one spot and then use that as
a bit of a reservoir. And you can go along. This is the first coat and it’s covering quite
well. If you have any drips that sort of splash down, just quickly feather over it before
you get to it and then it won’t dry and you won’t have a lump of paint to have to deal
with when you get to it. Here’s another tip: on a hot day you’ll notice the brush fills
up with paint. Give it a clean out with water, just water, every half hour or so and it’ll
just keep it nice and fresh. And you’ll be able to get the paint right in. Now with the
downpipe, if you’re going to paint the downpipe a different colour to the wall, it’s best
to paint that first. Give it its two coats first and then you can wrap it in a piece
of newspaper so as when you’re painting in behind here you’re not going to get it all
over the downpipe. We’re going to do it in the same colour so it doesn’t really matter.
With the downpipe, put a fair bit of paint on and then just feather it all out as you
go down. Right. It’s two hours since we finished our first coat now so just prior to giving
it the final and second coat. I’m just going to stand back and have a quick look at it
and it gives you a chance to see any imperfections that you’ve left in your paint. You might
get a little drip mark somewhere. Now that I’m happy with that first coat, we’ll start
with the second coat. When you’re doing this, do it exactly the same as the first coat.
You start at the top of the wall. You also start at the bottom of the board and go up
through the board. Nice long strokes. Now that the paint job’s finished, you can sit
back and enjoy it. With a little bit of maintenance, a bit of dusting, a little de-cobwebbing,
you’ll get 10-15 years without any worries. For more information, pop down to your local
Bunnings Warehouse. A team member will give you all the information you require.

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