How to Raise Kitchen Ceiling Height, Install LED Wafer Lights, Drywall

– Okay, so we just peel these off. Some of these are kind of yucky. I can tell some of these are newer, too. These have been replaced
in the last few years. Because normally, in condos like this, you walk into a kitchen like this, these will be all yellow,
like dark yellow and nasty. Sometimes to the point that
the light has no effect. So, we just peel all these off like this, and this is a standard suspended ceiling, and, luckily, if you look over here in the edge here, along the wall, we come around here and take a look. You can see they never
riveted these cross Ts, to the wall bracket, there. So, that’s obviously going
to make our job a lot easier, ’cause these all just kind of interlocked. They’ll come right out,
and these’ll pop right off. We’ll have this ceiling
down in five, 10 minutes. (“Mr. Right” by TeeVex) Hey, everybody, Jeff here, and welcome back to our channel. If this is your first time visiting us, this is a great time for you to take a look at the
subscription button down below, and you might wanna click on that, so you can be aware of
all of the other videos that we put out to help you. So, this is all for you, my friends. And at the same time, when you subscribe, make sure you click on that bell icon right next to it, that you’ll
hear when you subscribe, because it doesn’t make
any sense if you subscribe without being alerted to every time we put up a new video, okay? And then if you have any questions at all, leave them down in the comments, and we’ll answer them for you, so let’s get started with today’s project. Well, you can see here, now that we’ve exposed the whole ceiling space up here, you can some things that
are going to have to change before we can raise the
ceiling up from down here, all the way up to one and a half inches away from the corner, right up there. So, see how they ran the phone lines through the hole, up there in that wall? We are going to have to, somehow, move that up higher, and then you can see, right
here, that we have a register, up here on the wall, that’s coming out. We’re probably gonna block that off, not block it completely. We’re gonna just make
it flush with the wall and put the register on
the front face, there, facing downward, towards
the kitchen, here. It’ll still have the same
effect, and you’ll still have air conditioning coming in the kitchen. And then we need to investigate
what they did there, what’s behind all of that duct tape that you see right there. That’s the oven, that’s
the six three oven cable, coming out of there, from
the fuse panel, here, see? So, it runs from there, and it runs all the way along the ceiling, and it pops in the other end,
where they did the same thing, and then I also see a hole
in the drywall over there that we’re going to have to repair. So, that was just some
stupidity in construction, like we normally see. Nothing new there. All right, so coming back up here, to where we originally
found this duct tape, here. This is a lesson in how not
to seal a hole in a wall, ’cause the duct tape
dries and cracks, see? It just comes off, very brittle-like. So, we’re gonna go ahead and figure out what these clowns did
when they built the place, and we’re going to go ahead
and patch that up properly. And then over here, where
the AC vent, the register, was coming out of the wall, you can see they got a hole over here
that they never plugged. And it just wasn’t
finished right properly, up top there, either, so
we’re going to have to take care of all that, too,
when we raise this ceiling. And as I promised, it all came
down in about five minutes. And there it all is, on the floor. We’re going to recycle all of this stuff. We’ll put this out on bulk trash day, for the guys that come
around and get all the metal. We try to throw as little
into the landfill as possible, but you can see we have a
little bit of prep ahead of us before we can put our studs
up onto the ceiling, there, anchor in our two by
fours to hold the drywall. Okay, so I wanted to just take
a minute, here, and show you. I came up with this
plan, here, this drawing, and it basically shows a bird’s eye view, if you were looking down
from the unit, up above, as to what is going to
happen on the ceiling, here. So, if you see all of
these brown things here, these represent wood pieces. These are the furring
strips, or the strapping, the ceiling strapping that
we’re going to put down, so these are two by fours
that we’re going to lay flat, up against the ceiling, and
we’re going to drill them into the concrete, and this
will be the support structure to drill the concrete into. Um, not the concrete. This will be the support structure to drill the drywall into, here. So, if you look here,
like this here is a single eight by four sheet of drywall, and we just have to cut it
down to seven feet, 10 inches. Same with this section, here. And then the last section,
here, we only need about two feet wide, by
seven feet, 10 inches, right? So, what you have here
is we got really lucky. There’s not gonna be any butt joints. It’s just three sheets of drywall that we need to buy, here, right? And if you look here, you’ll see I have some of those straps coming
down the middle, here, too. One here and one here. Ideally, when the builders
build a ceiling strapping for their drywall
ceilings, they want to have 16 inches on center, that’s ideal. A lot of times, they end up with 24 inch, and that’s fine, too,
with two constraints. Number one, we have to
make sure that we put glue on every one of these straps, here, before we attach the drywall. And then, when we do the
drywall, we have to make sure we’re using five eighths inch drywall. It’s a lot stiffer than the half inch. I don’t recommend ever
using half inch drywall on the ceiling, ’cause it
bends and ripples too much. And also, the five eighths inch is better fire rated for you, as well. Now, fire code isn’t so much
of an issue for us right now, because we have a cement slab
up on the ceiling, all right? But I still like to go above
minimum code, whenever I can, and we’re going to put
fire caulking around all of these, here. And since there’s no butt joints, the taping will go a lot easier, here, because drywall sheets, as you know, along the long end, have a
little valley cut into them, and you can just put
the tape right in there, and it’ll go down quicker and easier, and it muds over easier. Now, here’s our disk lights, here, and I’ll show you those in a minute. The disk lights are what
we have to use, here. They actually call them Wafer lights. They’re LED Wafer lights,
and these will fit in the one and a half inch
space that’s up in there, and we’ll pre-wire their little cans, their tiny, little power supply cans. We don’t use the big cans,
anymore, for recessed lighting. These disks just clip into the holes that we’re going to make
in the drywall, here. And if you notice here, I
make my spacing three feet from every wall, and this
is where a lot of people drop the ball in kitchen lighting, and we just went through
this at my friend’s house. The electrician came in and put, like, for example, this light here, like, just inches away from
the front of the cabinet, and when you do that, it creates too much of a harsh shadow that goes
down, onto the counter, and you’ll end up with darkness
underneath your counters, so the way you overcome
that, is you have your lights out three feet from the
wall, and that creates a nice, wide dispersion
pattern of lighting, so it’s very simple. There’s not a whole lot
of rocket science to it, but so many people drop the ball on this very important point. Make sure your lights
are at least three feet away from the wall, not two
feet away from the wall. You don’t want to be 12
inches away from your cabinet. You want to be 24 inches away from the front of your cabinet, here. And then this wire, right here, we’re going to install that today. That’s the big, thick
power cord that goes from the fuse panel, over to
where the stove is, okay? And so, you see, we have
to leave cutouts, here, in our strapping, to
allow us to run wires, here and there, throughout. And that’s pretty much all there is to it. There’s a couple possibilities
we have for choices, here. We can do a, the old
cabinet was 30 inches, so you see how it ends up
here, at the 30 inch mark? And so, what we want to
do is get something better than that, something taller,
because look how much space would be left from here
to the ceiling, right? So, most of your standard cabinets, now, you can get 30 inch,
you can get 36 inches, and that would take us up to this line. What I need to find out from
my custom cabinet builders is do they have a 40 inch cabinet? Because, ideally, I would want to do a 40 or 42 inch cabinet. The problem is, is if I want
to do a 42 inch cabinet, there’s not enough space up here. ‘Cause remember, this
is what my two by fours are gonna take up, that
space right up top there, and the five inch drywall
is gonna go there, so I have to end my cabinets right there. That would have to be my endpoint. So, if we can get a 40
inch cabinet, we’re fine. If not, we have to back down to 36 inch. All right, so now we have to tackle the issue of this thing, here. This was our air
conditioning ducting that had the old register on it,
which was on the ceiling. With this new kitchen
remodel, what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna cut it back
here, remove the whole thing, and it’ll be flush with the wall, and we’ll come up with a new duct system that will allow the register
to end right there on the wall. All right, so now that
we’ve cut around the edge, I’m gonna just pull it
off the wall, there. And we’ll have to make
some adjustment cuts, here. All right, so we made the cut there, now we have separation. So now, that’s what
we’re looking at, here, so we’re gonna come up with a
way to terminate this better with the ducting, here,
and we’ll get a register that will fit on here, and
it’ll just be a wall register. (drill whirs) All right, so what you’ve seen us do here is we’re putting pilot holes, here, on these two by fours before
we mount them to the ceiling. So, these pilot holes are gonna
be for all of the Tapcons, and I’ll usually put one close to the end, and then you’ll see, I kind
of stagger them as I go down. This one will be on the right side, and the next one will be down here on the left side of the stud. And then we’ll put the stud
up against the ceiling, there. Against that cement slab. And we will put a concrete bit in here, and we’ll just kind of
tap it, and just, like, make score marks on the ceiling
for where we’re gonna drill, and then we’ll go ahead and
drill the holes for the Tapcons. Okay, and as we enter the kitchen, here, you can see our ceiling strapping, here, for the drywall ceilings is taking shape. We have the perimeter up, pretty much, so you can see all we did was we took our two by four studs, and
screwed them up to the ceiling, thus turning them into drywall strapping. And you can see what we’ve done, here, is we kind of staggered the
anchors, the Tapcons, so we just kind of alternate them, gives it a little bit more stability. See how they go here, and up
there, and then back that way? Then up to this end, and
then back to that end, and that’s how we do
it all the way around, and we just leave room, here and there, wherever we need to get a cable across, because we’re only gonna put our screws, maybe, six or eight inches apart, going around the perimeter, here. So, we’re going to start
getting some more of these put up, now, to go across. They’ll be our 24 inch, we’ll
have them every 24 inches. And you can see, we’ve already got our lights, our puck lights. The boxes for them are already attached to the concrete ceiling, there, and they just wire from one to the next, in a daisy chain fashion, and we’ll unplug these disks once we put the drywall
up, has the holes in them, and once the drywall is up and secured, we’ll attach these disks
right into the hole. The holes will be cut out in the drywall, big enough to hold these lights,
and they’ll snap right in. (drill whirs) Now that we have the hole
drilled in the concrete, it’s time to pull out the impact driver, and we’re going to drive
in this Tapcon, here, up into the concrete. (drill whirs) And that’s how you do it,
all the way down the line. (AirVac sucks) All right, so you just
saw, I like to vacuum out my holes after I drill them, and the reason is, is so that
there’s no concrete powder that’s in there that could bind up, so when you try to put
in your Tapcons, here, so you don’t want it
getting all bound up on the threads, here, and it’ll
keep your Tapcon from going in. It’ll make it hard to get it in there. It’s not as important
on the ceiling, here. There’s our hole. Not as important as it is on the walls, because on the ceiling,
most of it does fall out, by gravity, but it’s always
good to clean it out. I like to be consistent. All right, so this is
what I call insurance. Whenever I secure wood up to concrete, I always like to run
a bead of PL adhesive. Okay. Then I’m just gonna smooth it up in there. This just kind of helps
seal it to the ceiling. Gives it a little bit extra oomph. It’s the same thing they
do with the cabinets, when we secure the
cabinets to the wall, see? So, it’s just gonna help give you the strength
of a thousand nails, and we’ll do that all the way around. Wherever you see those
cracks are, we’re gonna go ahead and try to tool some
of this adhesive in there. You can do it with liquid nails, as well. – [Worker] Brand new, cool. – [Jeff] And here we
are, the next morning. We got all the framing up. Getting ready to add the drywall. We’ll just remove these disk lights before we put the drywall up. Got the cords all secured nicely. Everything’s routing along the strapping, there, along the top. All the cords are out of the way, so when we put the drywall up here, it’ll be just nicely tucked underneath. Okay, so what we’re doing
here, is we’re applying the adhesive directly to
the back of the drywall. It’s a little easier
than trying to apply it up top, here, to the straps, because it tends to wanna become
stalactites and drip down, so it’s easier for me to just put it right here onto the drywall. And here, we’ve got the
24 inch mark measured, and we’re going straight down, here. And it’s very simple, that’s all you do, because this will be as
strong as a thousand nails. This will help greatly hold
this drywall onto the ceiling. So, here’s our setup for putting the drywall up on the ceiling. We’ve got one T set up over here, and another one set up over here. And the idea is you get
the sheet balanced across and fit, the way you’re gonna put it, and then you wedge it up into the corner on both sides, here, and
then we have a third one that we’re gonna put up in the middle, that holds the sheet as close
as you can get to the drywall. So, this one’s already done, and we’re about to do
it on the second sheet. Four and eight, it’s this one, there. (drill whirs) Okay, and before we take our Ts down, we’re gonna show you how they look, how they’re holding the
drywall up in place, so that we were able to come in here and put our drywall screws
up into the strapping. And you can see they’re just wedged against the floor, there. And, so now we’re going
to take these down. They’ve served their purpose. (drill whirs) All right, so here, we
can see we’ve got the drywall ceiling installed, here, and you can see how narrow
a space you’ve got, here, so there’s your can for the light. There’s the electrical wire,
coming across, leading to it. And the can is right there, and we have our circles
drawn on the drywall, right there, and there’s another one, gonna be right over here. And so, we’re just gonna
drill these circles out, and reach up in there
and grab the white cable and plug in our disk lights. All right, so this is the
hole saw that we’re gonna use. I like this, this one’s
made by Klein Tools, and what I like about it
is it’s adjustable, here, so I can set these widths
here to whatever diameter of the hole that we’re gonna drill. So in this case, we’re going to drill a four and a quarter inch hole, and then this is cool, too. This is like a little bowl
that’s attached to it, and when you drill up
on the ceiling, here, it’s gonna catch all the dust. So, let’s see how it works. We’re gonna start right
here in the middle. (drill whirs) And it looks like we got ourselves a nice, little, cleanly cut hole. That only took a few seconds, and no dust. Because you can see, all
the dust is captured, right here in the bowl. All right, so now I’m
gonna just reach up here and grab my white wire, and you can see it’s just right here, and we’re gonna take the disk light, here, and screw it in. All right, so we’re just
screwing the frame in there, now. And then these, here,
you flip them back up, you wedge them up in the ceiling, there, and it just clicks right into
place, and there you have it. A beautiful, thin disk
light, and remember, it was all in this little
space right up in here, and that, folks, is how
you put a nice, little disk light into a very narrow crawlspace, for lack of a better word.

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