Metal Building Interior Finish
Metal Building Interior Finish


this is Chet Wilkins with sentry
builders and one of our buildings in San Tan Valley Arizona I just wanted to show
what can be done one of these buildings the inside of the wall this is one of
our buildings you can see the horizontal framing members. These are called girts, that we have to support the sheeting on the outside of the building. What we wanted
to do is to sheet the inside so that we can use this for a workshop and hanging
cabinets off here we can use it to protect the insulation we can use this
to just dress up the building and make it look a little better plus we’re
actually going to use this this girt up here as a support member for a shelf
that we’re going to install. We’re going to show you how we put this together. The
finish of this is going to look something like this. It’s a 3/4 inch
we’re using a 3/4 inch tongue and groove plywood. There’s a couple reasons why we use that heavy of plywood. One is we stand it vertical so that the grain is running vertical. That’s the strength of it that vertical grain and we’re spanning almost
over 3 feet between our backing between our framing members a 3/4 inch thickness
gives us a good stout material to span that far. We’re also using a
tongue and groove plywood so these edges stay flush with each other. Then
we’ve decided to cut off the top of the plywood. This is 7ft 4in, so we’ve cut
about 8 inches off the top of our plywood and we’ve opted to do that right
with this dirt member and then this piece up here we’re doing a 3/4 inch
medium density fiberboard that we’re using as a shelf. So this piece here is
actually cut at 16 inches deep or 16 inches wide and it’s run along the top
of that girt. So this is our medium density fiberboard piece we’ve ripped at 16in wide strips we get three strips out of the four by eight sheet we’ve taken a
route a router of wood router with the roundover bit 1/4 inch roundover just
ease the front edges of that so that they’re not so sharp the craftsman that
installing this realized that we’re going to have a problem back here in the
corner because it’s a kind of a rounded surface there so he actually rounded the
back corner on the bottom of this so that that Shelford go in and snug tight
against the framing member we’re using the metal drilling drywall screws they
have a drill tip an actual drill tip not just a point on the ends and we’re
putting those with about six inches on center back in the back the reason why
we’re going that’s that close together is just the weight of this shelf is
going to be on the front and it’s going to want to leverage that up and so we’re
needing the strength back here in the back and then on the front of this we’re
putting them about every foot just so that it’s a good and solid piece impact
driver screwdriver tip really easy to set those on with so the next step what we want to do is give us something to fasten the base down to where we’re fastening the bottom of the plywood down. On the outside of the steel building we
have an angle piece, this red piece you can see down here in the corner is a 2
inch by 4 inch cold formed base angle that we anchor down to the concrete with
some drive pin anchors that’s done all the way around the perimeter of the
building and that’s what our sheeting on the metal sheeting screws into on the
outside on this inside we’re going to do something very similar we’re using
basically the same material this happens to be a galvanized piece but it’s a four
inch by two inch angle piece or two for whichever way you look at it and on it
on the two inch flange which drilled 5/16 inch holes about every two feet to
give us something to screw this down too we’re holding it
flush with the inside face of these framing members here so it flushes out
all the way through using that just a hammer drill with a quarter inch drive
bit on it and ink read down into that concrete with that drill bit and these drive 10
acres you just stick down on the hole right down in place and that’s how we
anchored that bottom angle piece when we get to the sheeting part of it we’ve got
our drive our angle anchored down good and tight we’ve got our anchor points at
the mid-span at the top we’re going to put this tongue and groove plywood piece on next and put it in I want to just take a minute and you can see around the
building we’ve got electrical outlets that we’ve run around the building at
this level this is 3 foot 8 inches about finished floor it’s almost a perfect
height to put those those plugs if I can put a 3 foot workbench in here and
have it just above workbench height we’ve got plenty of those around the
side we’ve uses a flexible conduit cable to wire those to. It’s going to be
covered and exposed or covered and concealed on the front of these boxes
this is a metal box we’ve put a three quarter inch deep mud ring that
basically spaces the face of the cover plate out away from that the electrical
box and gives us a nice finish on that when we got this shelf anchored up on
the top here we’re actually using just a prop stick just a 2×4 cut a little bit
longer than this this here you can see it’s on a slab on an angle we kick it in
on the bottom until we get this good level we’re using a four foot level and
just making sure that though we’re actually leaving it a little bit high to
start with thinking that it might relax down a little bit this is our piece that
we’re ready to put in we found that these screws work best when we pre-drill
the holes for them so we’ve got a hole that’s a little bit just a hair larger
from the screw that that will slip into space to them about one foot centers on
the middle in the top this bottom one is where the pressure that whole pressure
of that shelf and the the plywood and everything is going to push down on that
bottom and so we’ve put those screws at six inches on Center down at the bottom
the screw holes and then we’ve actually cut this we’ve cut this piece about a
half inch shy or half inch short from going to full span because I wanted to
have it to where if you spilled something on this floor, spill water,
you spill oil, spill antifreeze or something like that it doesn’t it
doesn’t wick up on the bottom of the plywood sheet so we’ve got the screws at
six inch Center on the bottom we’ve got screws at one foot Center at the
mid-span one foot Center at the top you can see
this we’re getting ready we’ve got a cutout
piece a little cutoff that we’ve done for electrical to go around our let go
box we’ll put that in here I’m not going to show putting that sheet in or that
piece in it just it takes too long to try to put on this video but you can see
the one we’ve done previously we use a piece of the pilot turn and groove like
that as a tapping block that we can put on the edge of there and tap it with the
hammer just suck that just up that joint together the tunnel groove joint and
it’s just a really nice finish we’re going to paint this white probably from
the floor up and maybe we may hate the other underside it is we may think the
whole shell but the end result we’ve got a good strong surface we can help hang
shelves work benches cabinets whatever on this it’s going to be really strong
against the impact anything hitting it is going to protect the plywood or the
insulation behind it it gives a nice clean finish and I think it’s just a
pretty good system and then to bonus we already have we have that 16 inch wide
shelf that we’ve got for you those of you that do classic car restorations and
stuff like that that’s where you can put all your trophies up if you go on
camping gear those are the campers you put camping gear up there whatever is
just we’ve got a shell almost all the way around the shop I wanted to make one
more observation there are those of you who would say you know this plywood is
too costly this is about $30.00 if I would you can buy sheetrock for probably
less than half that for the same size of sheet of sheetrock but if you think
about the sheetrock if you sheetrock this inside you’ve got the expense and
the time taken to build a 2×4 wall or put Spade put two by fours every 16
inches on center whatever to hang that tube install the sheet raw tape it
texture it and when you consider all the time that
it’s going to take to that plus the fact that you could kick through the
sheetrock pretty easily somewhere and you can’t hang cabinets
off of it or whatever I think that three-quarter inch plywood is just a
really good balance of the expense and usability of it so Chet Wilkins San Tan
Valley Arizona Sentry Builders is our company hope this is helpful
good luck to you Thanks

58 thoughts on “Metal Building Interior Finish”

  1. EZ-UP Garage Doors says:

    that about a Pic of the final product

  2. B King Bandit. says:

    Nice job👍

  3. Dave S says:

    Excellent Video Chet. You do Nice Work………..

  4. HiTechDiver says:

    Something you said caught my attention: You stated that the plywood was stood vertically, because the strength is with the grain. I thought the strength of plywood was that each individual layer that makes up the sheet of plywood has its grain perpendicular to the adjacent layers, thus giving it strength in both directions.

  5. Ben Ferguson says:

    I very much like the idea of 3/4" tongue and groove for the walls in a workshop. Thanks for the video.
    I am interested in building a 14'x60' RV garage. Not sure what the cost would be, but I would probably have to do it in steps.

  6. wastegate says:

    you guys are anal

  7. J Clary says:

    I wonder about condensation build up between the insulation and the 3/4" plywood. Is there adequate ventilation to relieve this or do you feel that this could be an issue down the road with the plywood. Mold, mildew etc…

  8. Dougie Quick says:

    Cheaper dirty quick way to do the electrical would be string romex (non metallic sheathed cable) … (or the metal armored cable if that is code) into the void of new wall before putting up the plywood and leave a loop at each location you want an outlet. (or switch etc) then just cut holes in the plywood the size needed for old work boxes! You know the kind with ears normally used with drywall….well with 3/4 plywood it would be rock solid box mounts! Okay so the holes are cut right where you left the slack loop in the romex, simply secure the plywood, reach in and pull out your loops at each hole, cut the romex and install the old work boxes same as if in drywall You now have quick and easy flush mounted rock solid electrical installation! The only thing you get that is arguably less than with conduit is you lack the ability to pull new or more wire …how many guys that would ever effect? hardly anyone….IF you DID want to allow for future you could lay in a piece of flex conduit behind the drywall with plenty of slack that ostensibly you could cut a box hole wherever in the plywood and fish it up to the hole and connect that to an old work box…note that the old work steel boxes are gangable meaning if you needed a larger box for a 50 amp receptacle or whatever, you gang two together to accommodate that device…easy peasy!

  9. RC SDA says:

    I'm doing almost identical with my metal building, but I'm using 1/2" OSB. Spraying with a primer/sealer & painting white. I ran two separate circuits in each 4" electrical box (using romex behind the wall). I have no shelf on top, though. Have to think about that. The spacing off of the floor is a great idea. I'm doing .040" aluminum clad on the OSB where my welding stuff is.

  10. Brandt Vickery says:

    Great advice…I didn't want to do the dry wall route. I'm also gonna do a loft…if I support it out in the open–do u think the 2nd support on the wall would be enough? There won't be a lot of weight on it, but I don't want anyone falling. Great video.

  11. Faith & Action says:

    Thank you so much, that's exactly what I want to do!

  12. Jonathan Dexter says:

    Thank you! it helps me with ideas. In FL. we are planning a 40x40x30 steel agribarn, but will stud with 2×6 , insulate everywhere with Ply like that, Paint. Intall a hydropower water wheel Genny, for low to no cost electricity. Install A/C inside it and Wallah!

  13. Brian Baltzly says:

    I lined my shop with 3/4 plywood all the way to the eve. after it was sprayed with 2 inches of closed cell insulation. Very happy I did that first.

  14. Penna Cooner says:

    Why do you put the galvanized 2×4 thing on the bottom instead of just screwing into just the bottom girt like you do on top and the middle???

  15. podcastbard says:

    Nice video. Good information. Sound not so good. what you can try to improve your sound is a Wireless Lav Mic with a headset. You're far enough away from the camera that you don't need to worry about syncing sound to the lips.

  16. TitusLivy777 says:

    Very helpful! Thank you!

  17. E Buzek says:

    Just use the same kind of sheet metal that's on the outside of the building. You can get it in white,  it's not a fire hazard like plywood and should be cheaper than $30 a sheet.

  18. Jackrabbit says:

    Nicely done. I like the idea of keeping the plywood 1/2 inch off the floor. That stuff wicks like a sponge. Project looks great.

  19. Luiz Figueiredo says:

    Chet, great video. I am in the planning stage of doing same thing to my building and this presents the solution I was looking to do. The idea of using 3/4 plywood make sense since I am planning to hang shelving. The one question I have is are you using the same fastener for the sheathing as you used for the shelf?

  20. Steve Harkins says:

    Is there a reason we can't build the steel building to match dimensional lumber? That way we would not have to cut the 8 inches off the plywood. Then the whole building could be finishable with dimensional lumber and drywall or such, with very little scrap.Is it that the steel codes don't match the wood codes?

  21. T'airn'KA says:

    I wonder what's the R factor of that insulation mat?

  22. Homeless says:

    My plywood walls. I troweled drywall Mud very very thin , then painted , Everyone thinks
    the shop has been drywalled !

  23. keith dunham says:

    fix the audio

  24. Nonya Bizwax says:

    Learned more from your videos in a few minutes than all day at the other companies office

  25. Vernon Allen says:

    Why do you always see these great videos after you have struggled to find a solution to your problems? Thank you and I know now how to compleat my shop walls!

  26. Tom Swinburn says:

    Having spent some 40 years in the trades I gotta say this guy impresses me. Not only does he know what he's talking about and is able to explain it so neophytes can easily understand, he seems 100% honest as well. That is NOT standard in the industry. Not much difference between metal buildings, homes or commercial structures, most contractors and suppliers are not inherently honest. I hate to say that, but experience has proven me right time after time. More often than not everyone wants to get every last penny they can, to the detriment of the end user. I believe in a FAIR profit as much as anyone. But a lot of these folks wanna get paid CEO wages for journeyman work. Chet seems to stray from that and respect his customers and THEIR needs. Sadly not too common.

  27. Tom Swinburn says:

    It depends on what you can do in your building but always remember this. You can go TALLER much more cheaply than wider or deeper. In my neck of the woods you can find used steel trusses and red iron cheap. So building a second level (for storage for example) becomes much more cost effective than a larger footprint. Think 20 foot eve height rather than 12 or 14.

  28. Mark Benoit says:

    That brings the question why go with steel why not go with a stick framed building? A lot of people I know that have bought steel buildings did not get the insulation, and the insulation is not easily added, this makes the building very hot or very cold compared to a stick built building. Seems like a lot of extra work and steps, like you mentioned three-quarter plywood is expensive $30 a sheet, a steel building is expensive and is not easily finished inside, look at all that square footage behind the sheeting that you're losing!, and you're losing a lot of space because of the beams angling out, those beams dictate where workbenches or equipment is going to go in your shop. Why not just frame the building out of 2×6's or 2 x 4's in the first place? You can put metal siding on the outside of the stick frame building if you want and make it look like a steel building. Stick framing is pretty easy, seams to me the labor saving would be huge if you supply the labor, there is a lot of profit in the steel building kit vs just buying Raw materials. In my shop wall space is essential to hang and mount many different things i've worked in metal buildings and it's a lot harder to hang things run air, electrical etc also like I said before the way the support beams angle out word it prevents you from putting equipment up tight against a wall or forces you to move it over to one way or the other, for example say you wanted to have shelving all the way down one wall tight against the wall it would be impossible.

  29. Mark Benoit says:

    Another thing that could be done is the put the plywood even higher off the floor and use diamond plate about 8 inches up or so or you can buy rubber molding that can be glued on.

  30. Greg Lafleur says:

    I like, but pressboard (not good) .

  31. elizabeth akamatsu says:

    my i beams are 30 feet apart, one at each corner, and my perlins are 8 feet up. If I use this method, what keeps the wall from falling forward if something heavy is hung from the wall. The perlin is thin metal and it holds up the metal walls…. I guess I see the entire wall collasping inwards. There is a lot of flex in the metal wall.

  32. NEWEREJK says:

    You guys build in CA?

  33. Jose Soto says:

    amazing video!!! keep them coming!!

  34. Eleventeen Machine says:

    3/4" plywood is the way to go. If you're making a shop then sheetrock is nothing more than a pretty waste of money. And if you're worried about fire resistance, there is plenty of low cost do it yourself spray on fire retardants available. Just spray them on all sides and let dry prior to installation and you're safe.
    The only thing I don't like is MDF, it's just crap. Use plywood. MDF sags like old boobs.
    And lastly, if you're building a workshop, don't forget to run your air, 220v, and 3phase, around the sides before hand. It'll keep your walls clear and you'll have it available to easily tap into. I'm planning a build and when the interior is finished, all I want to see is the walls and some equally spaced 2 sets of outlets and air lines. The rest will be added on as need basis. It'll keep the long term update cost low. And that's more important for me since I plan only one big cost in the building and setup. But for now it's saving every penny and getting any needed materials that I can get for cheap or free ahead of time.

  35. Roy Saxton says:

    Use hat channels 16 on center. since they are screwed on in 2 places they act as sheer bracing and give more anchor locations for future projects. Yes, more expensive.

  36. Shawna Graham says:

    Were you eating when you filmed this? Sounds like an old 8mm audio

  37. Ben B says:

    Minute 7:18

  38. Jeffrey Miers says:

    Good video…….thanks!

  39. Made in USA says:

    Chet I am getting ready to do a shop in large Montana. One thing that worries me is the cavity behind the wood that will allow mice to nest. Anytime you have a ranch there are mice and rats. We constantly fight them. I do like the plywood.

  40. Made in USA says:

    Chet the other bonus you get from the wood is additional security from break ins. My friend built a new shop and the first week they took tin snips and opened up a 24×24 inch hole and took everything. Wood up 8 ft makes another layer inside they did not plan on.

  41. Brandon S says:

    Great video, I just had a metal building built and I'm wondering what type of bit to drill through the heavy beam? The thinner stuff is no problem but to run the conduit it will need to go through the supporting beams horizontally. Any help is appreciated.

  42. Evgen Patotskiy says:

    I'm sure you'll learn how to make it if you'll read woodprix instructions from cover to cover 🙂

  43. John Clericuzio says:

    Looks like a nice finish for the interior of this building. We at One West Steel Builders did the same to a 16,500 sf ag building in CA. Something we did was order the building with the first girt at 4'H and the second girt at 8'H so you don't have to cut the plywood at 7'-6" and utilize the whole sheet. We also ordered the building with an 8" base channel instead of the standard base angle so we didn't have to attach 2 pieces of base angle.

  44. Bill C says:

    Is the building heated or in any way environmentally controlled?  I am asking because I am concerned about moisture / condensation.  Planning on building soon – gathering information.  Thanks!

  45. Joshua79C C says:

    I myself would prefer a straight column, so there is no tapered column skewing out in the way as it goes up and eventually getting in the way of something, like say I decide to install a mezzanine living or storage space above and not limiting my storage layout choice as a tapered one will.

  46. Johnny Moran says:

    Another great informative video. Thanks.

  47. Burt Chiropractic Rehabilitation Center says:

    Hi,
    Very informative. We have the same building set up with insulation. I have few questions
    1. We are trying to insulate it even farther by adding SIP, and then drywall. Would you recommend to do electrical before SIP installation or after?
    2. Not related to this particular video. How did you water proof outside where metal walls touch concrete slab?
    Thank you

  48. Some Guy says:

    2:56 I wonder what it would cost to just order a wider girt that can serve as a shelf all by itself.

  49. p39483 says:

    I've been considering flat 2x4s placed vertically. $2.45 per 8ft length is $1.05/sqft while $30 4'x8' plywood is $0.94/sqft. Adding 1/4 tongue/groove for expansion and perhaps some backing wood could bring the cost up to $1.30/sqft but it's still within reason.

  50. Kersten Clifton says:

    Best way to anchor wood to steel is straight up with an Aerosmith anchoring system pneumatic gun designed for that job… the regular metal screw system used in this video will strip out eventually…
    I have used the Aerosmith anchoring gun for years doing exactly what this video demonstrates Versa Pin ST 4200 is the way to go… cheaper in the long run on labor cost, super tough you’ll have hell tryin to strip the VersaPin out of the wood.
    Just overall a way better system…

  51. Deke Bell says:

    Thanks for sharing!

  52. Travis Reed says:

    Great Video! Love the tongue and groove and off the floor idea. I only question the use of MDF… Why not plywood shelves? I am sure you have your reasons!

  53. Juan Martinez says:

    nice good jobs

  54. Denise D Rivers says:

    Very nice and very helpful 🌸

  55. Mr Guitar Who says:

    Chet , thanx so much. you really helped me improve on finishing my metal bldg. the shelf is brilliant !

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