Rose Garden Dress – Butterick Pattern 5879
Rose Garden Dress – Butterick Pattern 5879


Welcome to Professor Pincushion, in this tutorial
we are going to be doing Butterick 5879. So you are going to want to make sure that you
pick up this envelope so we can work on it together. We are going to be tackling dress
C from this envelope. Make sure you pickup the right size and the size as listed above
the barcode right here. So now let’s take a look at an example of the dress we will
be making. This is a line dress that uses a soft lightweight fabric for the outer shell,
you can see in this case I am using a chiffon, the neckline and hemline are outlined with
a flounce, it also has barrel cuff sleeves and a gathered waistline which would look
perfect with a purchased belt around the waist. Now let’s take a look at our measurement
chart. The most important thing when making your
own clothes is making sure that you are doing the right size. You always want to consult
the body measurement chart, and in this particular case it’s located on the envelope flap which
is right at the top. So you are going to see the sizes listed here on the top row and then
underneath are the body measurement. So you are going to want to measure your bust, waist
and hip and these measurements are in inches here. And then you are going to take your
measurements and try to line them up in a column, the column that best fits you that
is going to be your size. If you look at the back of the pattern envelope,
you are going to see what type of fabrics they recommend and also what other notions
we need besides fabric. You see here at the top they have fabrics and it says is designed
for soft lightweight woven fabric such as organza, chiffon etc. Now this is for the
outer shell of the dress so the main fabric, there is also a lining in addition to this
you will also need lining fabric. We have notions and is broken up depending on the
view that you are doing. So we are doing dress C so I can go ahead and ignore that which
is under A and B and just focus on C. So in addition to fabric I am going to need one
22-inch zipper and hooks and eyes. Once you know your size and what type of fabric you
are going to use you can then figure out how much fabric you are going to need. So you
are going to look at this top box which is broken up again by view. Since we are doing
dress C we can just focus on this part of it and ignore this up here for A and B. Now you want to look at the bolt of your fabric
or the fabric information tag because that is going to tell you the width of the fabric
that you were purchasing. Commonly it’s either 45 or 60 inches in width. Once you know that
then you can split it up even more so if for example I am doing size 12 and again the sizes
are listed up here at the top, everything below this 12 is going to relate to that size.
So if I am doing size 12, this is all going to relate to me, but I am only doing dress
C and let’s say my fabric is 60 inches in width so I go across the 60 inch row and I
go down the column 12 and that tells me for 60 inches I am going to need 3.5 yards of
fabric. So that tells me how much I am going to be purchasing of my main fabric. Then for
lining, again we have a lining in this dress, they only have a 45 inches so if I do the
same thing going across this row, going down 12, I am going to need 4 yards of lining,
plus we are also going to need some Sew in Interfacing so this is the non-fusible kind
and the same thing, so we are going to need 3/8 of a yard of Sew in Interfacing. The great
thing about this pattern is that also customize the pattern pieces in order to fit your particular
cup size. So we need to do a few additional measurements in order to know which particular
pattern pieces work and need to cut out. And this is going to be found on the first page
of the directions so you are going to see something that looks like this. All you need to do is (1) you are going to
take a measurement of your bust which you should already have, this is the fullest part
of your bust line and you are going to make sure that it’s all going even across the
front and even across the back as well. You can go ahead and write that down. (2) is going
to be the high bust, so this is the number 2 it’s above the number 1 and it’s going
to be right where the top of your armpit is, so where your arm meet your side, you are
going to put that measurement down as well, then you are going to write down what the
differences between these two measurements. Whatever that is, you are going to look here
so whatever the difference is if it’s 1-inch then you are going to be the A, B, cup size
and they also tell you what pattern pieces those are. So it’s really handy in order
to figure it out. Now we can get down to the business of figuring
out what pattern pieces we need to cut out for our dress. And you will see up here we
have some pieces that are very similar, one, two, three they all pretty much look the same.
The differences you have your cuff size up here. So if I am doing C-cup then I would
just cut out 2 and I wouldn’t have to worry about cutting out 1 and 3. Now these numbers
that you see in these diagrams, they match up to the same numbers we have on the list
below which tell us what the pattern piece is and which view it is 4. So I am going to
scroll down here. Now you will notice Bodice Front A, B, and A, B-cup this A, B does not
relate to the cup size, this is for what dress view you are doing. So if you are doing dress
A or dress B then you are going to cut out one of these Bodice Fronts but then you just
have to decide which cup size you are doing, so if you are doing in a C-cup you would cut
out number 2 but not 1 and 3, but I am doing dress C so I am going to ignore all of these
until I see one that says pattern B, C so here we go, this is for dress C. I am going
to put a checkmark next to each one I need to cut out because then it makes it a lot
easier from when I go to the actual tissue paper finding the pattern pieces I need. So
I don’t have to remember I can just refer to my checklist. Some of them do not have letters behind them.
These means its for all dresses, all views. So it doesn’t matter if you are doing A or
B or C, everybody is going to need to cut out the skirt front and the skirt back. So
I am going to go ahead and put a checkmark here. Here again we have the Bodice Front
C, Bodice Front C, Bodice Front C. Once I see this then I am going to have to decide
which cup size I am doing and I am going to put a checkmark next to it. Lastly we have
the Bodice Back C, Neck Flounce C, Sleeve C and Cuff C. Once you have all your checkmarks
you can then pull out your tissue paper and search for the pattern pieces that you need. They
make it really easy for you because the number that’s in the pattern piece goes back to
the same number on the list that we were just looking at. Also underneath they have the
name of the pattern and the view that it’s for. Now when you are cutting out pattern
pieces sometimes you will see a series of lines like this, each line is a different
size and you can see the sizes because the right below the line that they are pertaining
too. So if I am going to cut out for example a size 10, I am going to cut out on the line
above the size 10, everything else is going to get cut off and I am just going to follow
on this line. Now if we look at the bottom of the sleeve
pattern, underneath here we just have a solid line, these means it’s for all sizes so everybody
is going to cut out on that particular line. Now we also have notches and you can see a
notch right here, this is a single notch. This is how we fit certain pieces together
and making sure that certain parts line up. So you always want to mark your notches so
you are either cutting inward or you are cutting outward like I did. We are going to do the
same thing when we are cutting this out on our fabric or we are always going to mark
the notch because its very important later when we are putting a pieces together. This
right here, this is a double notch, so these are just two of the single notches put together
and just easier for me so I can see definitely see the difference between
the single notch and a double notch that kind of cut outward like I did but then I just
flatten the top, and just makes it a lot easier. After you cut out your pattern pieces you
can then consult the pattern suggestion layout and this is just telling you how they suggest
you layout your pattern pieces to cut out your fabric in order to make the most of the
fabric that they asked you to get. So we are going to look actually at page 2
which is the back of page 1 because that’s where they are going to have a dress C. So
we only need to look at the dress C layout and you will see here that layouts are shown
for D-cup what these means is in this layout they are showing you piece number 14 which
is the bodice for the D-cup, obviously if you don’t cut out a D-cup you are not going
to have piece number 14, but they tell you here, if you are doing A, B you are going
to substitute piece 12 for piece 14. So you don’t have to worry about, oh no I didn’t
cut out a size 14 that’s because you just take your size 12 and you put out where they
have the size 14, and the same thing for the C-cup. So we have a couple of different layouts
here it’s actually split up by the width of the fabric so I have 45, 45 and under here
I have some 60 inches so depending on the width of the fabric is the layout that you
are going to look at, but since you see that there is two of each one, you also need to
look at the size. So this 45 is for sizes 6 through 14, this is for sizes 16 through
22. So if I am doing the size 18 and add 45 inch with fabric, then I am going to look
at this layout here. My fabric is actually 60 inches and I am doing size 12 so I am going
to look at this layout. There is a couple of keys that we need to know so F means it’s
on the fold or there is a fold here in our fabric, S is the salvage, so that’s the end
of the fabric. So what this is telling you is you are going to take your fabric and the
fabric is going to be folded in half and we have a fold line here as some of the pieces
are going to be placed on the fold. Most importantly, piece number 10, so you
will see 10 listed here several times that just means that they want you to place it
on the fold, you are going to pin along one edge, cut along this curved edge so when you
open it you end up with a full circle and don’t forget we have this little inside cut
out area here, so it’s a full circle with another little circle cut out in the middle.
You are going to take off your pattern from this one that you cut out and then you are
going to do it 3 more times so if you end up with 4 of them. For pieces that are not
cut out on the fold, since the fabric is folded in half when you cut it out once you end up
with two of them. You will notice here this one is kind of hanging of the fold, this is
because there is not enough fabric to quite get it to fit the way it needs to, so you
need to cut out all of your other pieces then take what’s left, open it up and then cut
piece 18 and you need it twice. The reason why some of these are dotted and some of these
are white because the white means the pattern is right side facing up, the dotted means
they took the pattern and they flipped it. So the print side of the pattern is right
side facing down. This is kind of on it’s own because they have a different setup so
after you cut out these pieces you take whatever is left of the fabric. You fold it on the
top, you fold it on the bottom that way you can get number 8 on the fold line as well.
So when you open it up its twice as big and then you can fit another number 10. If we just go down a little bit further we
have the lining and we have our Sew in Interfacing, so it’s the same sort of setup they only
show you for 45 of those so you just have to pick which size it is and here you will
notice it looks a little bit different, we have the fold still but then salvage, salvage
so what they do is they take the bottom part of the fabric, they just fold it up enough
so you are able to fit these pieces on the fold line and then this is still one single
layer up here, you just have to cut out your pieces twice, but you will see one number
9 is white one is shaded, they want you to have two pieces of number 9 that they need
to be opposites you cut one right side facing up and then you flip it so it’s the opposite. Here let’s look at Sew in Interfacing, luckily
we only need to cut out 18 and then just fold it in half so you have two 18s. The last bit
of prep work we need to do before we start sewing is transferring our marks from our
pattern pieces to our fabric, so these are going to look like circles and dots and what
I like to do is I always like to transfer the marks to the wrong side of the fabric,
I am going to stick a pin through my pattern and through my fabric, here I have the wrong
side of my fabric actually facing up. And wherever my pin goes in that’s where I am
going to mark with either chalk or my fabric pin and you can see I already did line that’s
up here. Now sometimes I remove my fabric out of the way, you will have dots that don’t
have a size next to them like this you only have to do your size so I would do size 12.
This circle does not have a size so that means it’s for everybody. Also you may have triangles
you may have stitching lines that maybe squares there is a variety of different work, something
like this, this is actually just to test the measurement of something. So you don’t have
to mark this, but you would have to mark this. Before we start going through the directions
I always like to look at the sewing information box as it’s going to tell us what are Seam
Allowance is, it’s 5/8 of the inch so whenever they say do a seam we are always going to
assume that’s the width we are going to do it at. Also we have this key for reading the
picture directions, if I just scoot this over you can see some of the pictures here. So
if it’s shaded that means you are looking at the right side of the piece or the garment.
White is going to be the wrong side and then sort of this polka dot that means you are
looking at interfacing and it has these little diagonal lines that means that you are going
to be looking at the lining. Now we can start going through the directions and normally
when you are making something you start with Step #1, but in this particular case you want
to really pay attention because the Step #1 starts for views A and B, not for dress C
which we are doing so you are going to have to go through until you see the directions
start for view C. You will notice down here, you will see a C but this is actually for
the cup size so this is still dress A and B, but if you are doing the cup size C and
D. So it can get very confusing, you definitely want to pay attention, but what I am going
to do is I am going to read the directions and then I am going to demonstrate what you
need to do for each direction. In our particular case since we are doing
dress C we are actually going to start with Step #27. Step #27 for A, B cups just start
in Bodice Front press down. Now this portion is for if you are doing A, B cup size, if
you are doing the size C, D cup size then you are going to start with Step #28 but they
are essentially the same and I am going to show you on piece number 12 so the A, B cup
but then I will explain the difference so if you are doing a different size you can
just follow along with this. The first thing that you are going to do is so I am working
with piece number 12 and you know there is two pieces of 12 in your fabric. If you are
doing the C, D cup then of course you are going to be working with piece number 13.
You will see here we have a dart, now it’s broken up according to size so you just have
to find your size and then draw the dart for that size. And you can see my dart here. So
all you are going to do is I am just going to rotate this so it’s a little bit easier
for me to do it. You are going to take this portion of the dart or the fabric and you
are going to fold it in half. So you are just folding the dart in half because what you
are trying to do is take this line and meet it with this line here and you are doing this
on the wrong side of the fabric. So usually I like to start at the point of
the dart, grab my straight pins here and you are going to place a pin at the very end and
I like placing my pins so that they are going in perpendicular to where my folder is going
to be. And then I just kind of work my way outward just folding it. And then I am going
to stick a pin in one side, it just go straight through and then I flip it over and if my
straight pin is coming out on the line on the other side which mine is, then that means
they match so then I could go ahead, stick in my pin to hold it. And we also look at it
a little bit closer when we get to the machine because what we are going to be doing is stitching
right on our dart line here so it will be a little bit easier for you to see, and then
I am going to do it again so I folded, take my pins to get straight through, check the
other side, to see if my pin is going through my line. And if it is then I can go ahead,
stick my pin in, this is going perpendicular. So you see all we are doing is just pinching
this one area where the dart lines are. Here you can see a little bit better one side
of my dart lines and now I am just going to stitch right on that line, I am starting at
the widest point of the dart and I am just using a regular width stitch and don’t forget
to backstitch, just follow right along there. And if they are using a delicate fabric like
I am using chiffon, you may want to change your needle to a sharp needle and use a brand
new one, so we don’t have to worry about any snagging because this fabric tends to
be slippery I tend to use a little bit more pins than I normally do in other fabric, just
to make sure everything stays in a place so I am working to that point we are almost getting
to the end here. Now instead of doing a backstitch at the point of the dart I am just going to
stitch right off the fabric because sometimes if you do it backstitch you end up getting
a little bubble right there at the end of the dart, we don’t want that so we are going
to do and not by hand so I will show you what I mean once I get to there which I am getting
close. So this pin marks the end of my dart, I am
just going to remove it and as I get to the end just going to sew right off the fabric
like that and then when I pull it out I make sure that I leave enough thread on here so
that I will be able to make a loop, we actually switch to a table, so I can show
you how to tie it and then also what to do with your dart after you finish sewing it.
This is what my dart looks like right now so you just pinched your fabric and then you
stitched it. So what you are going to do is this is the part where we stitched off and
you can see I have my thread pretty long and all I am going to do is you are going
to loop the thread and then you are going to take the ends you are going to put it through
your loop and then you are just going to pull the end. We are just trying to get the knot
as close to the edge of the fabric as we can. Once you have the knot you can go ahead, trim
it off, if you are doing A, B cup you are going to take your dart and you are going
to press it so it’s going down towards the bottom of the bodice. If you are doing the
C, D cup you are going to take your dart, you are going to trim off this folded edge
so you are still leaving 5/8 of an inch on each side of the end of the dart here. So
you are just trimming off the top. And that’s going to open up this dart so we no longer
have it fold here and you are going to press the dart open. So then that’s going to take
care of Step #28. Step #29, stitch dart and Bodice Back press
toward neck edge. So now we are going to be taking care of the dart which is in our Bodice
Back this is piece number 15 and we are going to be doing the darts at the shoulder seam.
Again add piece 15 you should have cut two out of your fabric so we are going to be doing
this twice so you can see the dart up here you just need to do the one that’s for your
size so I would do size 12 and then draw the lines upward and you could see I already have
it done on my fabric, now when you are doing your darts you always do it to the wrong side
of your fabric. So all I am going to do just like before you are going to take the dart
area, you are going to pinch the fabric because we are trying to meet this line with this
line. And you are just going to pin it till you get to the point of the dart then you
are going to sell it starting at the widest point stitching along the dart line on one
side, stitching off the fabric when you get to the point and then you are going to hand
tie your knot and actually already have one done. So this is the other side of my Bodice
Back. Here is my dart right here so all of you are going to do is you are going to take
your dart and you are going to press it toward the neckline area. This is the neckline, this
area is the armhole and this is the shoulder area. So you are just going to take it, press
it to the neckline on the other one is going to be pressed in this direction because it’s
always the opposite. Step #30, stitch Bodice Front to Bodice Back
at shoulders and sides so now we are going to be pairing up one Bodice Front to one Bodice
Back. All you need to do this is the Bodice Front so I am laying it right side facing
up, I am taking a Bodice Back and aligning it on top of my Bodice Front the right sides are
together so I did right side down for the Bodice Back. And you want to make sure that
they are matching so that means that the armhole of the Bodice Back is in the same spot as
the armhole for the Bodice Front. So if they are both on the same side then that means
they go together. What you are matching up is the shoulder area so that’s up here, I
am going to go ahead and pin this two areas making sure that the edges match and you also
have a single notch that that matches and then you are going to do the side which is
this side underneath the armhole, let me just move this down a little bit. So you are going
to make sure the edges match here and then also your double notch matches. So I am going
to go ahead, pin these two areas and again you are doing this twice because we have another
side of front back of our Bodices and then you are going to stitch a 5/8 seam allowance
here and a 5/8 seam allowance up here, because my fabric is on the more delicate side, I
like to actually when I do a seam, used a shoulder stitch width or length. So what that
means is the length of my stitches are normally 2.5 and I just changed it to a 2, so my stitches
are a little bit smaller when I am doing my seams, don’t forget to backstitch at the
beginning and end of your stitch becasue you want to make sure there are seams stay in place
and they don’t come out. And then after you finish stitching all your seams you are going
to go ahead and press those seams open. Step #31, Stay stitch inner curved edge of
neck flounce reinforced through small circle, clip to circle. To him outer edge of flounce,
stitch half inch from raw edge, turn in and press edge alongside stitching as shown. Trim
very close to stitching, turn again along trimmed edges, stitch in two place. We are
going to be working on the neck flounce pieces so this is piece number 16, we should have
cut two out of your fabric, I have one right here all that I want you to do is I mean there
is many parts to this one Step so we are going to take one part at a time, the first
thing you are going to do is stay stitch, this inner curve here. So from this point
to this point you are going to stitch a regular width stitch and you are going to do it a
half inch from the raw edge all the way around the inner curve, don’t forget to backstitch
on both sides. Sometimes when stitching with chiffon, it
can be a little bit difficult especially if you are just sewing a single layer fabric
to fit evenly underneath your foot through your machine. So what I like to do one trick
is, we just cut strips of tissue paper, this is just regular tissue paper that it is purchased
at the store and I place it underneath my fabric I am stitching so it’s between the
fabric and the machine base. And that will help it fit through the machine a little bit
easier and then once you finish stitching you can go ahead and just rip the tissue paper
off. On the inner curve you are going to have a mark for your size which I already transfer
to my fabric, right here. So at this point they just wanted you to reinforce this area
where your mark is. So you can start, I would say about a quarter of an inch from one side
of it stitching at the 5/8 line you are just going to stitch right through your mark and
stop maybe of quarter of an inch pass that, you are not going very far, just this area
basically you are just doing a little straight stitch. And let me show you the one I already
have done. So here is my mark I stitch, well actually my stitching is right above my mark,
what I am going to do now because we have two rows of stitches we have a stay stitch
here and this is our reinforcing stitch here. All I am going to do is clip a notch so that’s
our little inverted triangle to my stitches at my mark here. So you are going to be cutting
through your stay stitches which is fine, just don’t cut through your reinforcing stitches
at the mark, right where our mark is because this is going to help later on. So you just
have a little notch like this. Next on both of our neck flounce pieces what
we are going to do is finish this outer curve raw edge area. So what’s you are going to
do to start off with half inch from the raw edge you are going to do a regular stitch
just like we did with the stay stitch. So it’s a half inch in, we backstitch on both
sides and we stitch the whole outer curve area because we did the inner curve with the
stay stitch, now we are taking care of the outer curve. So after you do your half inch,
you are going to you could have the wrong side facing up, you are going to fold over
from the right side to the wrong side and you are going to fold up so that your stitches
end up right above your fold line, you can just barely see my stitches right there and
here is my fold line right here. So you are just seeing this stitches peeking out. Then
you are going to press it and in that way and I have already actually started on this
side. So you can see so I pressed up and my stitches are on this side, then you are going
to take your scissors and very carefully you are actually going to cut most of this raw
edge off, careful we are not cutting into this just the raw edge you are going to cut
so you are leaving about 1/8 of an inch you want to cut pretty close to where your stitches
are, we are leaving just a little bit on there. So again on the whole outer edge go ahead
and trim it after you press it. After you finish trimming your hem, the next thing you
are going to do is you are just going to turn it over one more time. So now you are going to have a fold on the
top and the fold in the bottom and that raw edge is now in close to make it a little bit
easier when you are trying to focus in the place I like to just, pin it in to place
and I am going to do this all the way around this the outer curve only. And I have already
started over here you can see this is all pins so now we are going to take it to our
machine and we are going to stitch right along the top fold line. I am going to go ahead
and so that top fold line of my hem so that’s going to finish that raw edge. And you can
see I am using my tissue paper again it definitely helps it run a lot smoother as its going through
my machine just makes it a whole lot easier. So I am just going to continue doing this
total whole thing is hemmed up and we have two of this so you are going to have to do
it for both. Step #32, Finish back edge of flounce in same
manner. So are you going to be doing on your flounce pieces you will have one flat edge
this is the center back area, so just like you did on the part where you finished your
hem you are going to stitch a half inch from the raw edge then with the wrong side facing
up you are going to fold over so that your stitches are right next to that fold line.
You are going to press it, you are going to trim the raw edge, you are leaving just a
little bit and then you are going to turn it over again and stitch on the fold line
at the top. And I have already done this one, this is the one that’s on the other side.
So once you have those complete we could then move on to the next step. Step #33, Pin flounce to Bodice right sides
up matching notches triangles and back edge to center back, baste clipping as necessary.
So now we are going to be attaching our finished flounce pieces to the neckline of our Bodice,
so remember we stitch the front bodice to the back Bodice and we have two of those sets.
Now this is one of them and I just turn it sideways so this is the bottom of the front
Bodice, this is the front center the neckline and if I went this way this would be back
neckline here. So it’s just going to make it a little bit easier. Now you will notice
that we marks we have a large circle down here, a small circle right here, you should
have triangles right at the shoulder seam and the same marks are going to be on your
flounce. So I have this right side facing up. The neck flounce is also going to be right
side facing up because we want to make sure that when we are looking at our dress we are
looking at the right side of the flounce and the right side of our bodice. At the very
bottom I have a large circle, this is going to match the circle and I am going to make
sure that the raw edge meets the raw edge of the bodice. So I am going to start pining
this into place. We also have notches, I have a single notch right here this is going to
match the single notch right here. Now you will notice as you are pinning that sometimes
things wont perfectly line up so what they are saying is sometimes you have to clip into
the raw edge of the flounce to open it up in order to make it fit a little bit better.
So what this means if I am pinning right here and I just need to move this over a little
bit more, you are not going to cut into your stay stitch but I can just do it single little
cut like this in this area because thats the area I need to open up, now when I pin this, I
can just pull it out a little bit more. And now my notch is lined up so you may have to
do that throughout as you are pinning the flounce. Again, we have our single mark right here
this is going to match the single mark right here. Again you may have to cut into it to
make sure that everything lines up, be sure not to cut into the stay stitching though. And
then you are going to come up along the neckline, I have another single notch that I am matching
I am just going to move this a little bit more over here. I am coming to the shoulder
seam where I have my triangle, I have a triangle here as well. So I am going to make sure that
those match and then whatever is left pass the triangle if that goes with the back neckline.
Now this edge is not going to come all the way to the edge of your back. It should be
short about 5/8 of an inch because we are going to end up sewing our center back seam anyways
and we don’t want the rough what we get caught into that. So I would measure 5/8 of an inch,
pin your back there and then clip in little notches if you need to just spread it out
to make sure everything else matches. So you are going to pin all this raw edge and you
are going to do it for both sets so I have this flounce and then I have my other flounce
with which I am going to match with my other set. And then you are going to baste these
two pieces together. A basting stitch is going to be the larger stitch on your machine
where just tacking this two pieces together so it doesn’t matter where you do it, you
could do it at the half inch or you can do it at the 5/8 I am going to go ahead and do
it at the half inch which you don’t have to worry about doing any back stitching, it’s
a really quick stitch to hold them together. Step #34, Pin bodice sections together at center
front, stitch from lower edge to small circle. So now we are going to be taking our two front
bodice pieces and we are going to be stitching them together and we are going to be doing
that at the center frontline so again this is the bottom of my bodice, this is the center
front line and this is the start of the neckline. So what I am going to do is I have one side
right side facing up, I am going to take my other front bodice piece and it’s going to
go right side facing down so the two right sides are together and all you are doing is
just matching from the bottom to the area where you have your small dot, I have one
here, and then I have one here. So your fabric should actually go straight come to point
and then kind of go at an angle so that’s the point where you are going to want to match.
So I am going to start pining this, this two pieces together remember you are matching
the raw edge and we are matching these single notches here. Once you have it all pinned,
you are going to stitch your 5/8 seam allowance from the bottom, stitch up until you get to
your small dot up here and then you can go ahead and back stitch at that point and not
go any further. Step #35, Gather lower edge of Bodice ending gathers 1.5 inches from back edges. So at the bottom of our Bodice you are going
to do two rows of basting stitches you are going to do one at the 5/8 inch mark and then
you are going to do one at the 3/8 inch mark. You are going to make sure though that you
start and inch and a half in from the back center back, same thing on this side. So I
had measure an inch and a half then I would go ahead do one set of basting stitches
and remember you don’t have to do any back stitches and then you are going to stop 1.5
inches before you get to this edge. And then I am going to go start again, but this time
at the 3/8 line and do my second row of stitches. Step #36, For A, B cup stitch dart in the
Bodice Front lining, press down. So now we are going to be replicating what we just did
with your main fabric with our lining pieces so we are going to grab our two lining pieces
for our Bodice Front so that’s going to be 12 if you are doing the A, B cup or 13 if
you are doing the C, D cup you have your dart which you should have transferred also to
your lining pieces and you are going to create the dart in the same manner so you have your
two lines that you pinch together or bring together you stitch along that line, for those
doing the A, B cup you are going to take the dart and you are going to press it down to
the bottom of the Bodice. For those doing the C, D cup you are going to follow steps
37 which means you cut off the top of the fold so then you can go ahead and press the
dart open. Step #38, Stitch dart and Bodice Back Lining,
press towards Neck Edge. You are going to be taking piece 15 of your two lining pieces
and we are going to now create the shoulder dart. Same sort of thing as we did before
you are going to pinch the dart area you are going to stitch on your line, don’t forget
to hand tie the knot and we are always doing our darts to the wrong side of your fabric
and then you are always going to press them towards the neckline. Step #39, Stitch Bodice Front Lining to Bodice
Back Lining, add shoulder, so now we are going to match up one of our front lining pieces
with one of our back lining pieces, place them so the right size are together and you
are making sure that the armhole is in the same area. So you are going to sew your 5/8
seam allowance at the shoulder here making sure that the notch matches up and the size
match up, you are also going to go ahead and sew at the side seam, making sure the bottom,
the top, right here and the double notch matches up and you are going to sew your 5/8 seam
allowance. Step #40, Stitch a lining sections together
at center front from lower edge to small circle. So this is just like what we did with our
main fabric. You are looking at the center front of your lining and this again the neckline
and this is the bottom and I have it right side facing up, I am going to grab my other
set, the front Bodice on to the back Bodice. And I am going to line them up right sides
together, you are going to pin just this section only and do it your 5/8 seam allowance from
the bottom here and then stop when you get to the dot. Step #41, Gather lower edge of lining and
then gathers 1.5 inches from back edges. You are going to do your two rows of basting stitches
or gathering stitches, at the bottom portion of our Bodice for our lining. Again you are
starting 1.5 inches from each side and you are going to do one at the 5/8s and one at
the 3/8s no back stitching. Step #42, Pin lining to Bodice right size
together matching seams and centers stitch neck edge trim. We are now going to be attaching
our main Bodice piece with our lining Bodice piece. And they are going to be attached at
the neckline here. So I have this right side facing up, I am going to grab my lining now
and it’s going to be right side down because I want the right sides to be together and
again I am just matching up the neckline so starting here at one of my back bodices making
sure that raw edges match, making sure all my notches match and the center is going to
match as well. I am going to pin this because we are going to do a 5/8s seam allowance.
Now I just want to point out that because these are being stitched together right sides
together, we are eventually going to flip it out so what these means is once I have
finished my dress and because I am using a very translucent organza type fabric here,
once my dress is completed, the wrong side of my lining is going to be coming through
my fabric, this is just something to be aware of. So what these means is you really want
to make sure if you use a light color fabric like mine that your lining looks the same
on both sides, you really can’t tell the difference. Also there are going to be seams
showing through. So what I am doing as I am sewing this when I sew a seam now you can
just sew your seam and press them open that’s fine that’s up to you, but for me I don’t
want them to be distracting as it’s coming through this fabric. So I am trying to make
them as small as possible. So after I sew a seam I then go back with my machine and
I do an overcast stitch right next to my seam or seam line. Then I trim it right
on top of that so my seam is a small as possible, now I am sewing it shut which is fine and
then I am pressing it to one side, mostly to the back. So I am doing it for my lining
but I am also doing it for my fabric as well, just so everything is consistent. So that’s
entirely up to you if you want to do like I am doing, but for right now all I am going
to do is I am going to sew this neckline and even if you don’t do it finishing seam like
me, you are still going to want to trim your seam allowance after you finish. Step #43, Turn lining to inside under stitch
press, so I went ahead turn my lining to the inside of my Bodice, I am still looking at
the right side of my Bodice fabric and the lining is now on the inside. And you will
notice it doesn’t stay in there very well, like it we need to pop out which is why we
are going to do an under stitch so to do an under stitch you are going to, you are not
putting the Bodice where it was before you are just pulling out the Bodice to separate
it from your main fabric. Your seam allowance that you just created and trimmed this is
still going to be pressed close so you are not pressing this part open. And it’s going
to be a pressed so it’s underneath the lining section. So I can fill it with my thumb that
the seam allowance under there, then we are going to go to our machine and we will go
to the machine and take a little bit of a closer look. And you are going to stitch right
next to the seam line on the lining side and you are only going through your lining and
the seam allowance. So the seam allowance is going to be stitch to the under side of
the lining and you are just getting as close to the seam line as you can. And you are doing
that for the whole neckline area. Here you can see a little bit easier so I
am just making sure that I am keeping my stitching on the side of my lining, but you want to
stay close to the seam line, you just don’t want to crossover into our main fabric and
I have them pulled in two different directions because I want to make sure I don’t get any
of the other part of my lining caught or my fabric caught, is just this part of the lining
plus the seam allowance underneath and I am just doing a regular stitch and I am going
to back stitch at the beginning and end of my stitch. Step #44, Baste lining to Bodice at Armhole,
here is one of my armhole so all you are doing is you are taking the raw edge of your lining,
the raw edge of your fabric, you are matching them up and you are matching all your notches
and seams and stuff. Go ahead and pin them and you are going to baste all the way around
the whole armhole. We are not stitching the front, the back obviously we want our armhole
to stay open, you are just kind of tacking together your main fabric with your lining. Step #45, Gather upper edges sleeve between
small circles, gather lower edges sleeve between small circles. We are going to be working
on our sleeves now, so this is pattern piece number 17 and you should have cut two out
of your fabric. Now you will notice the series of marks, we have small dots up here at the
top, you have a large circle right at the cap of the sleeve at the very center of the
cap. And then we have two small circles down here at the bottom. So these are the marks
that we are referring to and we are going to be doing two sets of gathering stitches
and remember these are the basting stitches so that will largest stitching machine, no
back stitching and basically what you are going to be doing is you are going to be starting
at one small circle here at the top and you are going to be doing a basting stitch at
the 5/8s stopping when you get to the other small circle. Then you are going to go to
the 3/8s starting again here and finishing when you get to the smaller circle. So you
are just going it from one circle to the other, you can ignore it this one in the middle for
right now. Then you are doing the exact same thing for these two small dots down here.
So just starting here, doing a basting stitch, 5/8 line and then starting again at
the 3/8s line and doing another set of basting stitches. Step #46, Stitch sleeve seam. You are going
to take each of your sleeves and you can see my gathering stitches at the top and the bottom
here, you are going to have your sleeves right side facing up, this area and this area need
to line up because this is going to be our underarm seam so I am going to fold it in
half like this, and now the right side is to gather a line up the short end right here making
sure the single notch matches and the edges. And you are going to go ahead and do your
5/8s seam allowance. Step #47, Baste interfacing to wrong side
of cuff. So this is piece 18, this is the cuffs so you need to cut two out of your fabric,
two out of the Sew in Interfacing, all you are going to do is very simple, you are going
to take your Sew in Interfacing, you are going to pair it with one of your fabric cuff pieces,
make sure that lines up and you are doing it the interfacing goes to the wrong side
of the fabric. Then all you are going to do is pin around the edges because you are going
to baste around all four sides attaching the interfacing to your fabric. And I usually
do it at the half inch mark all the way around. Step #48, Stitch ends up cuff together so
you are going to take each one of your cuffs, you are going to lie them so the right side
is facing up, my interfacing is on the back here. And you are going to take the short
end and meet it with the short end, so the right side of the cuff is now on the inside.
You are going to pin this edge and do a 5/8 seam allowance. Step #49, Turn in seam allowance of cuff edge
without small circles, press turn and press seam allowance to 3/8s of an inch, so you
are going to take each of your cuff and you will notice on one side they will have the
single notch so we are actually going to be working on the opposite sides so this side
down here all you are going to be doing is with the wrong side on the outside you are
going to turn over this edge, 5/8ths of an inch and then grab my sew engage so I can start
measuring this. And go ahead and pin it and you are going to press it so it’s going to
be press 5/8s of an inch all the way around. After you press it you are then going to go
back around and you are going to trim the raw edge so just the raw edge only so you
are only leaving 3/8ths of an inch left. Step #50, Pin cuff to Sleeve matching symbols
and seams adjust gathers baste stitch, trim, press the seam toward cuff. Now here is our
cuff, here is our sleeve, we are now going to the attaching that too, so you are going
to want to make sure that your sleeve is right side out, your cuff is wrong side out because
we are going to stick the bottom of the sleeve into the cuff and that way we can assure that
it’s going to be right side together. The seam in your sleeve should match the seam
of your cuff and you are matching up the raw edge with this raw edge here on the cuff,
so not the side that you fold it up, but the other side now that has the single notch.
So I will bring it down here, right so this is the part that has my seam and the sleeve
and I am matching up with this seam of the cuff. I am going to pin it. Now you may notice that your sleeve is bigger
than your cuff and it’s meant to be that way because we are going to be using remember
down here we stitched our two rows of gathering stitches, we are going to be pulling these
to help ease the bottom of the sleeve to the cuff. And it’s still going to have some ruffles
and some gathering going on which is fine because that’s going to allow this type of
sleeve to kind of puff out a little bit. So I am matching up now my single notch with
my single notch. And then also you will have the small marks or dots and you can match
that up as well. So I am matching up these major points and then I am going to worry
about the gathering, right so after we pin this, alright so I only have this much in
my cuff, if I was to flip this, you will see I have this much of my sleeve that I need
to fit in this area. So this is where I am going to pull the threads, let me actually
move this up a little bit. Right so I have my threads from my gatherings
such as I am just going to pull them and let me turn it this way and it’s going to start
gathering this area. And once it starts to fit, fix this then you can start pining it,
now normally what you want to do is you really don’t want to cause any wrinkles or gathering
but because of this type of sleeves you are definitely going to have wrinkling and you
are going to have gathering which is fine, I mean there is no way to get around it because
there is so much here. What you want to make sure though is that in the area that you are
gathering it you just kind of distribute the gathering evenly so it’s not all just bunched
up in one area it’s just distributed over a period of the fabric. So that way it looks
a little bit more even so then I was going to, I don’t need to do the same thing on
this side as well. So I am matching up my small mark with the small mark on my sleeve
and kind of the center point is going to be where my single notch is, this point with
the single notch this is not moving at all. So now I have all of this fabric to fit into
this area. So again I am going to be pulling my gathering threads to gather the fabric
and then I am just going to kind of distribute the gathering so it fits evenly and it doesn’t
look like its all bunched up in on area. Once you have this whole thing pinned you can go
ahead, take it to your machine you are going to baste and then you that way its going to
hold it without pins and then after you baste it you can go ahead stitch at your 5/8ths seam
line and you are going to trim your seam allowance, you are just leaving a little bit and you
can just move your, if you move the cuff, like this you are going to want to make sure
that your seam allowance stays underneath the cuff. So you don’t have to press it open
you just press all your seam allowance so it’s underneath the cuff. Step #51, Turn cuff to inside along fold
line press slip stitch pressed edge over seam. So you are going to be taking your cuff now
and you are going to take the folded edge and you are going to fold it up so that it
covers up your seam allowance and all that raw edge right there so just going to come
to the top of that seam allowance and we are going to pin it into place and after it’s
all pinned you are going to press it so we get a nice crisp edge here on the bottom of
the cuff. We are going to get a little closer because then I am going to show you how we
are going to slip stitch this into place. The slip stitch is done by hand and you should
use a matching thread I am going to go ahead and use a contrasting one so it will be a
little bit easier for you to see, so what we are going to be doing is you have your
fold of the cuff and then you have your seam allowance right here which is on the sleeve.
So I am just going back and forth between the two sides and we are going to start here
at the cuff and I am going to come up right so my needle comes up where the fold is, but
I am starting on the inside of the fold because I want my knot to get tucked in there and
then to stay hidden, just took that in there we go and then I am going to grab a little
bit of the fabric. You can see I am just doing it right where the top of my seam allowance
is. And you are going to pull it, and then I am going to go back to the fold of the cuff
then to the seam allowance, then to the cuff and then to the seam allowance. So again just
going back and forth, and you are doing this all the way around the whole thing and you
are going to do it for both sleeves. Step #52, Edge stitch upper and lower edge
of cuff. So now we are just finishing the look of our cuff all you are going to do is
all the way around you are going to stitch right along the top of the cuff right next
to the seam line and you are going to do the same thing on the bottom of the cuff, so you
are going right next to that fold that and you are just doing a regular stitch and you
are going all the way around both cuffs. The Edge Stitch is a finishing stitch so we just
want our cuff to look finished and it doesn’t matter if you start at the top or the bottom
of the cuff I am going to go ahead and start at the top and you could see that I am going
right up here, right next to the top of the cuff, I am just going all the way around and
then I will count my threads and I will start on the bottom. Step #53, with right size together pin sleeve
into armhole placing large circle as shoulder seam, adjust gathers baste stitch, stitch
again one quarter inch of way and seam allowance, trim close to stitching, press seam allowances
flat, turn seam towards sleeve. All we are doing now is attaching our sleeve to our Bodice.
So I have my sleeve right side out and then I am looking at the inside of my Bodice so
I am looking at my lining. I am going to stick the sleeve inside an armhole, cuff first,
so I am left with the cap of my sleeve which is lining up with my armhole here. And it
should be right side together. Now to make sure you have the right sleeve in the right
armhole, you are going to look at the notches. So on this side I have a double notch, on
this side I have a single notch. So this sleeve should match up. So here I have a single notch
I am looking over here I have a double notch. So it’s perfect. If they weren’t matching
up, just means I need to put the sleeve in the other armhole, it’s only thing. So I
could start pining this and making sure that the underarm seam of the sleeve lines up with
the side seam of the Bodice. At the very top of the cap of the sleeve, lets pull this out
here, you are going to have a large circle. This is going to line up with the shoulder
seam of the Bodice. You also have two small marks on each sides so I have a small dot
over here, I have a small dot on my Bodice, so I am going to line that up and it’s the
same thing on this side as well, I have another small dot that I need to line up. Now you will notice just like when we did
the cuff, you are going to have more fabric in your sleeve than you are going to be able
to fit into this one area. So just like before you are going to pull your gathering stitches
it’s going to cinch this up, now you are just going to have the situation where there
is so much fabric that your cinching up here that is not going to lie flat. They are going
to be some ruffling and some wrinkles here which is fine. You just want to make sure
that you take the gathering and you distribute it evenly against us, not all bunched up in
one section and just pin it, best you can and I am going to do the same thing on this
side as well. So everything looks even after it’s pinned all the way around, you are going
to baste it into place then you can stitch at your 5/8 seam allowance, you are going
to go up a quarter of an inch and stitch again. So you are going to have two rows of stitches,
one at the 5/8ths, one at the 3/8ths because this is going to be in area that has a lot of wear
and tear, we are just going to make sure that the sleeve is not going to come out. After
your do your second row stitches you can trim your seam allowance so that it’s close to
the 3/8s and we are going to keep the seam allowance closed, you are not going to press
it open and then you are going to press the whole seam allowance towards the sleeve. Step #54, Stitched Dart and Skirt Front, press
towards Center. We are moving on to the skirt now so we are first going to work with piece
number 8 this is a skirt front and it should have been cut on the fold. So when we unfolded
it, it was a piece that was twice as big and you have just one, you will notice that there
is a dart at the top so these mark should have been transferred to our fabric and you
are going to have it dart here and a dart here. You create your dart in the same manner
that we did the Bodice so it’s a same sort of thing where you just pinch the two sides
together and you stitch until you get to the point. Once you have created your darts you
are going to press them towards the center of the skirt front so they are facing each
other. Step #55, Stitch Dart and Skirt Back, press
towards Center, Stitch Center Seam and Skirt Back from lower edge to large circle. Now
we are dealing with piece number 9, this is a Skirt Back you should have cut two out of
your main fabric and again it has the dart at the top so in both of your Skirt Back pieces
you are going to create the dart and then you are going to press it towards the center
back. And you know the center back because one side is going to have the double notch,
one side is not so the side that does not have the double notch that is a center back
and that’s the direction you press your dart in. Now we are going to be placing the two
back pieces together so once its pressed going to flip this over now so it’s right side
facing up. I am going to take my other back piece so it’s right side together and now
my center back seam is on this side. So I am going to pin this two pieces from the bottom
along the side matching the raw edges and you will have a large circle, this is what
you are going to stop, so you can stop pining here but you are going to stitch your 5/8
seam allowance from here down to the bottom. Step #56, Stitch Skirt Front and Skirt Back
at sides. So here is my back this is the seam that I just created and it’s open above that
large circle, I have it right side facing up I am now going to grab my front, lay it
down so it’s right side together and you are going to be matching up the side seams
so that’s going to be the side over here with the double notch and the same thing this
side over here which is a little hard for me to raise so I will fix that, after and
you are going to be pinning this two sides from top to bottom and stitch your 5/8ths seam
allowance and on this side as well. To finish up Step #56, we need to prepare skirt lining
in same manner as skirts so now we are just going to do the same exact thing with just
in first skirt and our lining. So you are going to take the darts in your front and
you are going to press them towards the center. Then you are going to do the same thing with
your back lining pieces, create the darts and press them towards the center back. Next
take both your back pieces, put them right side to the right side, you are going to line
up the center back seam so that’s the side that does not have the double notch. So from
the bottom up to the large circle you are going to do a 5/8ths seam allowance. And this
part above the circle is going to remain open. Lastly, put your front lining and back lining
together, right side together and you are going to sew your side seams here and on the
side as well. Step #57 and 58 are for hemming dress A so
we are going to skip on to Step number 59. Reinforce lower edge of skirt through circles,
clip two circles, you will notice on the bottom of your skirt patterns you will have stitching
lines and you only need to transfer the one that’s for your size to your fabric of your
skirt. You can see mine here is there is just a couple of examples there is 4 in total,
now all you need to do I am going to move this one out of the way, is you are just going
to stitch right on that line and you are just doing a regular stitch, don’t forget to back
stitch because we are going to reinforce this area you are not stitching anything together
is just a single layer. So I am going to do for this one I am going to do for this one
and I am going to do it for my other two. Now after you finished stitching it you are
just going to clip the notch to the center of that and you are not clipping your stitches,
you are just clipping to them. Step #60, Stitch Flounce Sections together,
so now we are going to be working with piece number 10 and this is the one we are on the
straight edge you should have placed it on the fold so when you cut it out you end up
with a full circle with the hole in the middle. Now we need to open up the circle, we could
be able to stitch all these flounce sections together so to do that we are going to cut
with our scissors from one side from one outer side to the inner circle here, only one side.
So I’m going to cut here but I’m going to leave this side intact so we are going to
be able to open up the circle here. So to do that I’m just going to use my pattern as
a guideline, I’m going to grab my ruler, because I want to make sure I do it straight down
the middle and I do it straight and then I’m just going to draw a line and with this line
I’m going to cut right along it and then I’m going to do this for all 4 pieces. Next I’m going to grab one of my sections
and you can see a straight edge here and I’m making sure that’s right side facing up.
I’m going to grab one of my other flounce sections and I’m going to match up one of
the straight edges with this one now. So you can see they are lining up and I’m making
sure it’s right side together and I’m going to stitch a 5/8th seam allowance. Then I’m
going to grab the straight edge on the second section and I’m going to match it up with
a third flounce and then a fourth. And then the last one the fourth one is going to end
up meeting up with this side right here. So you have actually sewed one big loop with
all four of them stitched together. Step #61 Stay stitch inner curved edge a flounce
reinforce through small circles, clip to circles. We are looking at the inner circle of the
flounce. So what you are going to do is, you are going to do a stay stitch which means
you are going to stitch all the way around and you are going to do that a half inch from
the edge. Then you should have marks on your flounce and it should be next to the fold
line right where that inner circle is. And you could see I have one right here. Now if
you are unsure if you can’t find your mark, it’s basically going to be opposite side
of the small inner circle opposite of where you slashed. So at these areas you are just going to stitch
through these marks at the 5/8th mark so you could start about a quarter of an inch on
each side and then you can stop a quarter of an inch on the other side of it. So you
are just going through it and then once you finish stitching those you are going to cut
to your dot. So there should be 4 of these and you are making sure, you can go ahead
and cut through your stay stitch but don’t cut through your reinforcing stitch at the
5/8th mark. Step #62 to hem outer edge of flounce, stitch
1 quarter inch from raw edge turn in and press edge along side stitching as shown, trim very
close to stitching, turn again along trim edge, stitch in place. So now we are going to be hemming our flounce
just like we do with the next flounce, it’s the same exact thing the only difference is
from the raw edge you are stitching in a quarter inch away from the seam. So just a little
bit and you are going to do this all the way around the whole outer bottom perimeter of
the flounce. After you stitch it you are then going to fold it up and this is the wrong
side so I’m folding up to the wrong side so that you are stitching ends up, let me show,
do it over here it’s a little bit easier to see my stitching. Your stitching ends up
right next to that fold line. So you can see it on the inside of the flounce, you are going
to press it and then you are going to trim so you are leaving just a little bit of fabric
of the raw edge above your stitching. So I’m just trimming most of this off and just leaving
a little bit. Now what you are going to do is after you
trim this, you are going to take what’s left and it’s still folded up and you are just
going to fold it over again. So now that’s stitching is underneath you know you have
a fold on top and a fold on bottom. And then you are just going to stitch right on that
top fold line creating a very narrow hem. Step #63 pin flounce to skirt right sides
together and matching seams on flounce to center front and center back and side seams,
clipping flounce as necessary based stitch press seam allowance towards skirt. Our flounce
is going to be attached to the bottom of our skirts so you are going to have your flounce
and I have a wrong side out and this is that inner circular area that we did our stay stitch
on. So I’m going to grab my skirt and my skirt is right side out and I’m going to stick my
skirt into my flounce so that the bottom of the skirt is up or near the top of the flounce.
So this is the side that has that kind of scallop design. You will have 3 seams in your skirts, each
seam should match up with a seam of your flounce. So I’m going to line them up, now there are
4 seams in your flounce. So there will be one seam left over that seam just goes in
the center of the skirt front. So you just need to find the center front and then you
are going to pin a seam from the flounce in that position. So first what I like to do
is and again the right sides together is I like to line up all the seams. So once all
the seams match and one seam of the flounce matches the center front area of the skirt
front, I’m going to pin those areas. Then we have the area that we clipped you kind
of see a little blue mark here so this is where I did the reinforcing stitch and then
I clipped to my reinforcing stitch these I’m going to match up with my skirt where I did
the same thing. So this is where we did that reinforcing stitch and then we clipped right
to the middle so then I would match those together. And there are going to 4 of those.
So 4 in the skirt, 4 on the flounce. And you are going to line up the raw edges,
okay. And then everything else in between I’m just going to try to fit together. Now
you will notice that there maybe more fabric on your skirt then there is on the flounce
so just like we did when we were trying to match up our neck flounce to our neckline
and we had the same issue you are just going to do a little clip and that’s going to start
spreading things out so I would make it a little bit easier. If we need to do more than
one you can do more than one. So then I’m just going to pin all the way around till
the bottom of the skirt is pinned entirely to the top of the flounce, then you are going
to baste your seam. After you have baste it you can go ahead and stitch it and then you
are going to take your seam allowance and you are going to take your seam allowance
and you are going to press it up towards the skirt, not towards the flounce so then you
can go ahead and pull your skirt out so it’s pulled out away from the flounce and just
take your seam allowance and press it up towards the skirt. Step #64 edge stitch skirt along seam. All
you are going to do is you are going to outline the bottom of the skirt so here’s the skirt
portion, this is my flounce. I’m just going to put my hand over here so it’s easier to
see. So you pressed up your seam so it’s underneath the skirt portion and you can just
see the edge of my seam right here all you are going to do is stitch on the side of the
skirt right next to the seam line and you are attaching then the seam allowances underneath
to the skirt fabric, you just got to be careful that you are only doing the skirt, the portion
of the skirt that you are working on and the seam allowance that’s underneath it, we are
not accidentally sewing the skirt back to the skirt front. So you are just going to
outline with your stitches right along the bottom portion of the skirt all the way around. Step #65 reinforce lower edges skirt lining
through circles, clip two circles. So we have already done this with our main fabric, now
we are just going to do it with our lining on the bottom portion of the skirt you should
have these stitching lines that you transferred from your pattern, they are both on the front
and the back of the skirt all you are just going to do is just stitch along it using
a regular stitch and then you are going to clip right down the center and I have actually
already done it with this one. So stitched and then I just do a little slit right to
the center being careful not to cut my stitches. Step #66 stitch flounce lining sections in
same manner as flounce make a 5/8th narrow hem on outer edge of flounce lining stitch
flounce lining to skirt lining in same manner as skirt. So now you are going to take your
lining pieces of the flounce and you should have 4 just like we did with the skirt. On
one side we are going to have your mark on the other side you are going to cut from the
inner circle to the outer circle and you are going to do that for all 4 pieces. Then you
are going to take each piece, each flounce and you are going to line up with one straight
edge so they are basically going in the same direction right sides together you are going
to stitch your 5/8 seam allowance then you are going to take the other flounce and you
are going to stitch to the other one till all the 4 are stitched together so you have
one singular open circle right in the middle. After all the pieces are stitched together
you will have this inner circle like this and you are going to stay stitch a half inch
from the edge all the way around then where you have your marks you are going to do your
reinforcing stitch 5/8th from the edge and you are going to clip like I have one right
here I will just bring this more into the center. So I have a mark right here, I went
ahead and I did a regular stitch, 5/8th of an inch from the edge from one side to the
other side going through my mark and then I’m just going to take my scissors and just
clip to my mark being careful and not to cut the reinforcing stitches. To create the hem on the flounce what you
are going to do is press up 5/8th of an inch on the raw side on the whole outer edge of
our flounce. So I’m going to measure 5/8th of an inch you can go ahead pin it, you are
going to press it so you have a nice clean edge all the way around. After you press it,
remove your pins, take a raw edge, it’s going to fold to your crease that you created when
you press it and then you are just going to stitch right along the top fold. To finish this up all we need to do is attach
the bottom of our skirt to the top of our flounce and this is in lining area, notice
I’m using two different colors. So you got to make sure that when you stick one inside
the other the one on the inside is right side out and the one on the outside is wrong side
out so then when you have them like this they are going to be right sides together. You
are going to make sure that everything matches up, all your seams and marks and you can go
ahead and start pinning them, remember that you may have to do clips in order to spread
out the flounce section so that it fits all throughout the bottom of the skirt. Now when I’m sewing it and basing it, I always
like to do it looking at the skirt portion because it has sort of the scallop design,
I want to make sure that I capture that once the skirt is finished. So I pin it and then
when I’m sewing it, I just look at the skirts, I can follow along those same lines. Step #67 reinforce back lining through large
circles at upper edge clip to circles. So if you look at the top portion of your lining
for the skirt you are going to notice on the back you have a large circle and then here’s
the other side, I just have it folded so you can see both at the same time.
All you are going to do is you do a reinforcing stitch so this is stitching at the 5/8ths
mark and you are just starting a little bit before the mark and stopping a little bit
afterwards. Then you are going to clip in the area not cutting into your stitches. Step #68 pin lining to skirt, wrong sides
together and matching the center front sides seams and back edges, stitch keeping lining
free below clips. We are now going to match up our main skirt piece and our lining skirt
piece making sure that these raw edges are together. So I stick one inside the other
one and you are going to make sure that you are doing wrong side to wrong side. So if
I look on the inside, I’m looking at the right side and on the outside I’m looking at the
right side of the lining. You are going to make sure that everything lines up that means
seams, darts, notches, marks, ends everything. When you are pinning you are going to start
at one large dot on the back so the same place where we did our reinforcing. So you are going
to pin and you are going to start stitching here, going in the direction of the front,
come around and you are going to stop when you get to the large circle on the other side.
So everything from the large circle to this open end is going to remain free, you are
not going to stitch it. Just from one circle to the other go ahead and do your regular
seam allowance. Step #69 make half inch French tact between
lining and garment seams at lower edge as shown. So now we are going to creating a French
tack between lining and garment seams at lower edge as shown. So now we are going to be creating
a French tack in order to hold together our main fabric with our lining at the top of
the flounce area. So all I did is I have my garment right side out, I pull back my main
fabric so I’m looking at the seams, this is the seam that’s on the flounce and this is
the seam between the flounce and the skirt and you are looking at the same thing here
in the lining. So this is the wrong side of the lining, the wrong side of the skirt, here’s
the seam between the two and then you have your seams up the flounce. So we are going
to be attaching this area with this area. And this is going to help keep the lining
and the main fabric together so they are not shifting as much and when you take off your
dress the lining isn’t going to come up through the skirt and basically drive you nuts. So
you are going to need to get some needle and thread because we are going to hand sew this
and I’m using a contrasting thread so it will be a little bit easier to see but you should
use a matching one. And I’m going to start down here so this is where we have the seam
and I’m coming up underneath the raw edge not too close to the edge, because want it
to be at a pretty stable point of the fabric and then I’m just going to go through a couple
of times at the point where my thread came out just to kind of anchor into place, a couple
of times. Alright so now this is my starting point now
I’m going to grab the same exact point on the other side of my main fabric, making sure
that it’s in the same position as this one and I’m going to come through again just the
seam allowance part. We are not going through a fully through our main fabric and the
seam allowance, because then you are going to be able to see on the right side and we don’t
want that. Alright so I’m just pulling it until I have about half inch because they
said they want us to create a half inch tact. So then I’m going to come up right next to
where I went down on the side. And then come back to the side. So the two strands are going
to be pretty close together and I have to hold this it stays at the half inch mark.
It’s kind of similar to creating a thread loop. Okay, and then come back up, the lining
side of the seam allowance, because now we are going to start reinforcing our thread
loop. And the reason why they pick a half inch because you don’t want it too close
like we don’t want these directly attached or it may cause problems later. So we give
it a little, half inch is good. Alright so now I’m down at this point, all
I’m going to do is I’m going to come under the loop, I’m going to take this tread, it’s
going to go over my needle on the other side. And I’m just basically creating a knot at
the end here. Okay and then I just do the same thing, come through this goes over my
needle, so I bring the needle through, create another knot, that’s going to go right on
top of the knot I just created. So I did one knot, I did one knot on top of it and I’m
just going to create knot after knot after knot until I get to this end. And then you
can create your final knot and you can cut it off and do another one. So you are going
to do this for each seam that you have in your flounce lining and in your main flounce.
So there should be 4 total that you are doing this, underneath this goes over your needle
and then creating a knot, making sure that you do one knot above the other. So you don’t
just work in the same spot you are actually going forward. Step #70 open out bodice lining, pin skirt
to bodice right sides together, matching center and fronts seams and back edges, adjust gathers,
stitch keeping lining free below clips. Press seam allowance toward bodice, now the full
dress is coming together so we are going to be attaching our bodice to our skirt, so here’s
my skirt I have it wrong side out so you can see the lining, we still have this opening
over here, because this opening is where the zipper is going to go. Now I’m going to grab
my bodice and my bodice is right side out. This is the top of my bodice and this is the
bottom of my bodice so it goes in top first because we want to line up the bottom of the
bodice with the top of the skirt. So you are just going to put that in there and we are
going to match everything up. So right now it kind of looks like a mess, the main thing
that you need to do is move your bodice lining out of the way, we don’t want to do that
right now. We are just dealing with the bodice fabric and not the lining, because we will
deal with that at a later time. Alright so this is my skirt, this is my bodice
the part where you left it open when you were sewing the skirt, remember we had this circle
and we just started here, but anything between the circle and the end is open so you can
go ahead and take this part and you can move it out of the way, because you are going to
take your skirt fabric, your bodice fabric and we are going to start pinning them together.
And we want to make sure, everything lines up, all the seams line up. Of course you wont
have darts in your bodice but that’s fine. Notches you are going to want to line up as
well. Alright so now when we get to this point where
the lining and the skirt is attached, at that portion you can go ahead and start pinning
all of it. So now I’m going to be pinning the lining, skirt and bodice fabric together.
And I’m going to go all the way around until I get to the other side. And the other side
is going to look like this, where from the circle on it’s just going to be the main
fabrics and then pass the circle towards the middle of it, it’s going to be the lining
attached to that as well. And you also notice that we have our gathering stitches in our
bodice so there maybe portions where it’s not fitting together perfectly, go ahead and
pull those gathering stitches and just kind of distribute it evenly so we can kind of
cinch the bottom of the bodice so it fits the top of our skirt. Once everything is fitting
and pinned go ahead and stitch your regular seam allowance and then we are pressing our
seams toward our bodice. Step #71 is broken out into sections, so we
are just going to take one section at a time. So the first one is open out bodice lining,
baste opening edges together along seam line above large circles as shown, keeping skirt
lining free, press. All you are going to be doing is you are taking now this opening edge
that we have had on the back of the bodice and the back of the skirt. Now we are going
to start prepping up for a zipper. So this is the center back this is the top and this
is the bottom of the dress here, just so you can figure out what part I’m looking at. I
have the right sides together of my main fabric only and pulling out the lining because I
want to make sure they are not getting caught in this also making sure that my neck flounce
over here, stays out of the way as well. You are going to pin the two raw edges together.
So this part, this is the bodice section, this is the skirt portion down here. You are going to start basting from here at
the 5/8ths line all the way down here until you get to this large circle down here and
then you are going to press your seams open. B) Open zipper place face down on extended
seam allowance placing zipper stop at large circle and zipper teeth on seam line, base
and center of the zipper keeping garment free. So here, is the basing seam I just created
and it’s press open and I just took this seam allowance and I extended it past the
rest of the garment so there’s nothing underneath this part of the seam allowance. This part
has everything else underneath it. So we are just having this part be by itself because
now we are going to start attaching our zipper and this is where we are going to start. So you have your 22 inch zipper, you are going
to unzip it and the side where you can see the zipper tag that’s the right side of the
zipper. And then down here, you will see a zipper stop, this is the zipper tape, the
stop is actually inside that. So you want to make sure you don’t confuse those. I’m
going to turn it so the right side of the zipper is facing down towards my open seam
and the zipper stop is going to be at where you have the end of your basting seam so
where that large circle is that’s where you are going to put the stop. The zipper teeth
we are going to get rid of this one now because we are just working on this side now. So the
zipper teeth is going to go right in the middle of your seam line. So you are just going to
be pinning it and making sure that everything is lining up and you are just pinning it to
the seam allowances hanging over here, nothing else you are not pinning it to the garment,
just this individual seam allowances hanging off. And I’m just going to keep going until I get
to the very top, after you pin it, all you’re going to do is do a basting stitch right
down the middle of the tape, so you can either do that with your machine or you can do it
by hand and I’m going to go ahead and do it by hand because it just gives me a little
bit more control so I can make sure that everything stays in place. C) Close zipper pull tab up, spread the garment
flat, baste a scant 1 quarter inch from zipper teeth and across lower edge. You are going
to take your zipper, go ahead zip it up we are now going to have it so it’s going flat
across the garment, like this and all you are going to do now is you are going to definitely
use your zipper foot for this part. So you are going to start stitching down the zipper
on the zipper tape going through now the seam allowance and the back of your garment. So
the bodice back or the skirt back so making sure that you are not going all the way through
and your are stitching the front or the rough or anything else, it’s just these two things.
So one quarter inch away from the teeth you are stitching down at the zipper you are going
to go pass the zipper stop a quarter of an inch as well then you are going to go across
the end and then back up still staying a quarter of an inch away from the teeth. And you are
going to make sure that you are doing a basting stitch and it’s probably easier if you
use a contrasting thread so it shows up. I’m basing my zipper under place and I’m just
getting, just below my stop so once I get a quarter of an inch pass that I’m going to
leave my needle in the fabric, lift my foot, I’m going to pivot everything and it’s hard,
because there is a lot of fabric to this, so you just got to do the best you can and
I’m always making sure that I don’t have any extra fabric underneath my foot here,
only the stuff that I need to sew. So after I align everything up and go ahead and foot
down stitch across, let me fix that, okay there were go. And then once I get past to
the other side, lift my foot again pivot my fabric, make sure that nothing is under there
that shouldn’t be and then I could put my foot and continue down the rest of the way. D) On outside stitching along basting through
all thickness as shown using a zipper foot, remove basting. I have put my garment over
so now we are looking at the right side of the garment and you can see my basting stitches
here in the light green. So all I’m doing is using a regular stitch, stitching right
on top of those basting stitches all the way around my zipper and that’s going to install
my zipper in fully. Then I could remove all my baste in stitches including the ones that
right in the seam line and that’s going to open up my zipper. Again you have to be careful
that you don’t have anything underneath your foot except for the part of the garment where
we have been working on and the zipper tape. Step #72 turn the skirt lining down, turning
in opening edges to clear zipper teeth. So remainder of zipper lining to upper edge of
waist seam slip stitch to zipper tape. So now we are working on a skirt lining and all
you are going to do is on the edge each of these you are going to turn under so it’s
going on the inside now. So that it comes to, it doesn’t come to overlap the zipper
teeth in the middle, this probably maybe about an 8th of an inch away, because we want to
make sure that our fabric is not going to get caught in the teeth. So you are going
to do this all along the edge and you are going to do it on the side as well. You can
go ahead and pin it, just to hold it. After you finish pining it you are going to
make sure this top edge gets pinned to the rest of our waist, our waist seam here. And
you are going to stitch now, so once we stop stitching here and this was all loose and
now you can go ahead and stitch from here to as close as you can get you might not be
able to get all the way to the end because the zipper gets in the way, but just as close
as you can get. After you stitched this then you are going to go ahead and slip stitch
the lining to the zipper tape, so you are just going through the zipper tape only not
all the way through to the right side of the fabric. Step #73 turn bodice lining down, slip stitch
back opening edges to zipper tape. Turn under seam allowance on lower edge of bodice lining,
adjust gathers, lap over skirt seam allowances. Slip stitch, we are doing the exact same thing
that we did for our skirt lining to our bodice lining so all you are doing is you are turning
it over or turning it under in order to pin it in slip stitch. The bodice lining to the
zipper tape up here. So I want to make sure that my lining is now going to be on the inside
of the garment so I’m just folding it over about 5/8ths of an inch and then I’m turning
it over so the line is completely on the inside and then I’m pinning it about an 8th of an
inch away from the teeth because again I want to make sure that it’s not going to overlap
the zipper teeth and you can see I have already pinned it on this side. So both these sides you are going to slip
stitch into place just like you did for the bottom portion here. Now you will notice that
our bodice lining will overlap our skirt lining by a little bit so you are just when you do
this part down here, you are going to turn it up about 5/8th of an inch and you are going
to do this all the way around the whole waist line because we want to make sure when this
is folded and it’s stitched down it is going to be covering all our stitches here at the
waistline so you are not going to see it, all you are going to see is a nice folded
edge and this area is going to be slip stitched as well so you are going to slip stitch up
here and then also all along the waistline. Now like when we are attaching our bodice
to our skirt we had to adjust the gathers at the bottom of the bodice, you will also
have to do this with the lining as well which is why we did these gathering stitches. So
if you find the area is not fitting in you are not able to match up the side seams or
something go ahead and pull those gathering stitches so you can just kind of cinch it
in and make everything fit. The last step is Step #74 so hook and eye
to back opening edges above zipper as shown. All we need to do is just put out hook and
eye at the top and then our dress is done. So usually I do the hook first and this is,
this one over here, this is the hook, so it has the flat side and then it hooks up and
it gets sew to the lining. So the inside of your garment, once I have that sew on and
you will see we have the two hoops at the bottom that’s where you would put your stitches
through. Then I get the eye portion, I hook it through there, I position my eye where
I would like it on the other side so it’s even, once it looks like it’s going to work,
this one is just all crocked, straighten that out, okay. Once it looks like it’s in a good
spot then I can go ahead unhook it, hold it with my finger and you are going to use a
needle and thread with this. So all you need to do they are very simple
to sew is you are going to start on the outside of one little loop here and you are going
to come up on the inside. And then you are on the outside and then you come up on the
inside. So it’s like doing a whip stitch and I usually do about 5 or 6 times for each
one and after I have done that one then I’m going to move on to this one so both of them
are stitched through. To finish it, be sure to remove any basting
stitches or fabric markers. Now you have a beautiful dress as perfect to wear to any
elegant summer event. This has been Butterick 5879 enjoy your new dress. Make sure to check out other videos and visit
www.professorpincushion.com to view our complete library well over a 150 sewing video tutorials.
New tutorials are released regularly. So make sure to subscribe to be notified of the next
release. Thanks for watching.

31 thoughts on “Rose Garden Dress – Butterick Pattern 5879”

  1. Melissa D says:

    BEAUTIFUL DRESS! how do you have the time do all of these? 🙂

  2. Reebee4589 says:

    I love your tutorials! The last one you posted I already bought the pattern…same thing with the one before! This pattern I was going to buy, but didn't! Would love to win this and learn to make it! No one would believe that I made this if I wore it…so fancy! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I wouldn't be able to make these garments without your videos!

  3. Sharon aBost says:

    I just recently signed up with your website. It Is Fantastic!!! The tutorial videos?? What more could a beginner ask for. Your knowledge is excellent and I love the way you explain each section a pattern and the purpose for it.

  4. DeeLightful Co says:

    This is so light and spring-y Hope warmer weather comes soon so it can be worn. Dee

  5. Ruby Trotman says:

    I'd like to be lucky enough to have this pattern to make this beautiful dress along with this wonderful tutorial.

  6. Rita Vicario says:

    You can buy it here at sewingpatterns . com
    Enjoy….

  7. Deborah Hathaway says:

    could I be lucky and actually win some-thing for the first time in my life and which is great!

  8. GurlPrincess says:

    I love these detailed sew-alongs!

  9. Seaside Kitty Co says:

    You always put me in the mood to sew :). Thank you for these vids!

  10. Reyna Lay says:

    What a great video! My first video of yours that I've seen. So glad I did! I subbed also! Hope I win! 🙂

  11. Lindasuella says:

    This is one fantastic video…especially for a novice like me..Thanks so much for the tutorial..well worth the watch..

  12. pjtsr says:

    Excellent video…very clear and thorough. You answer the questions I usually have with these patterns.

  13. Carol Osorio says:

    I love that dress! I also love your videos they are always so clear. Thank you Prof!!

  14. Jennifer Haviland says:

    I love this one! It has such a romantic '30s feel to it so it can be perfectly styled for any retro lawn parties.

  15. Jenn Henning says:

    Thank you for always making your tutorials clear for beginners! you really make it easy to sew along with. I love this dress for spring, would be great for a picnic 🙂

  16. Lisa George says:

    This is an adorable dress. Thanks for showing us how to do it, as well as matching up our body sizes with the patter size we need. I found it extremely helpful!

  17. Joey H says:

    please view the entire garment process skill and concept building

  18. PikaIryna says:

    Hi, could you please tell me what fabric you've used here for lining?

  19. Professor Pincushion says:

    it's a lightweight poly/cotton. I like things that are very easy to work with 🙂

  20. Professor Pincushion says:

    aw…that's one of the nicest comments I've ever received. Thanks for the kind words 🙂

  21. Valdesgreen says:

    Professor, have you made a video about square necklines?  Your videos are very clear and invitations to sew.  I show them to the girls at my high school and they pay attention!! That is saying a lot!!!

  22. HunniChile72 says:

    Excellent tutorial as always Professor! My question: if I'm not using a sheer fabric like you are will I still have to line the dress? And if not, how should I finish the neckline where the flounce goes? Thanks .

  23. michele c says:

    where did you get that fabric. It is so gorgeous.

  24. Colin Gordon says:

    Fabric is lovely,dress is ugly,oh my,love watching though.

  25. Annie Prepper says:

    I luv that Miss Crabtree dress! Thanks for your great tutorials. You are my shero.

  26. Beauty For God Art Gallery says:

    Oh, I have this pattern!  Can't wait to finish watching your video!

  27. Beauty For God Art Gallery says:

    Would you be willing to share the cost of your purchases to make this dress?

  28. charlie southerton says:

    can u do buttericks patter B4343 please

  29. Wendy Austin-Rawlings says:

    I am SOOOOOOO glad I found your videos. Best teacher ever!!

  30. Vivian Lee says:

    Hi there! Have you ever tried using Crayola's Ultra Clean washable markers instead of chalk? I've tested them out myself and they seem to work. But i'm wondering what your professional thoughts are?

  31. Malak El Hamidi says:

    Hello! I was wondering if you can make butterick 4736! I'm struggling a bit and would like some help~ ㅠ.ㅠ

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